Hoi An

Hoi An to Hue via Hai Van

After originally planning to sell my motorcycle in Hoi An, I was drawn to the highway once more to tackle the Hai Van pass, an enticing coastal mountain pass that effectively splits northern and southern Vietnam. As evidenced by the bunkers at the top, the pass was a key military position in the Vietnam War, with views ranging far north and south, out into the South China Sea. By Vietnamese road standards for quality and craziness, the pass was a breeze. Perhaps I’ve just gotten too used to the chaos to mind anymore, but I felt right at home climbing up and over, rolling down into the next city of Hue, passing all those slow poke riders along the way. The freedom of having my own means of transportation was something I could already tell I was going to miss as I began to think how I was going to sell the bike in Hue.

Hue is an old imperial city with not a whole lot going on aside from its historical citadel and grandiose tombs that house previous rulers. With that said, the riverside setting below misty mountains makes for pleasant strolls through the city and its outskirts that hold the sights. Taking advantage of my last day on the bike, I ventured out and about, cruising through rice fields, rolling hills, and roadside potion stands. I parked my bike at one stand before heading to one of the grand tombs, with the promise that I would make a drink purchase on my way back. As I sat down, I looked around for the drinks, only to find giant jars of alcohol marinades, filled with snakes and baby deer fetuses. It was slightly disturbing to say the least, but thankfully I was able to order a (sealed) bottle of green tea. Maybe I’ll try the deer whiskey next time…

The tombs and citadel were surprisingly very peaceful, with gardens and lily pad-filled moats surrounding beautifully crafted facades with brightly tiled roofs. I found a few serene spots to sit and just be. With all the sights and sounds of the last 4 months piling up, it’s become more and more difficult to process it all. The time alone is essential to reflect on my experiences, embrace my thoughts, and continue to challenge myself and my pre-conceived notions. I need more break days than I did early on. I don’t knock everything off the list in every city anymore, and that’s something I’ve learned to be content with. At some point, I will grow tired of exploring, of having the motivation to get out and go every day. When the time comes, I expect to be perfectly content with that state of mind, and will embrace booking my flight home. That day is not today, however.

The show must go on.