India

Life is Camel Safari

After elephants, kangaroos, and monkeys, I figured camels should be the next logical progression in strange animal encounters for the trip.

Making my way west, into the Thar desert, I arrived in Jaisalmer, another fort town with a colorful nickname (The Golden City), with the agenda of getting on a camel and riding off into the desert, never to return again. Perhaps I’d find my treasure there, like Santiago in The Alchemist, or better yet, find a genie lamp in need of a good rub-down. After about 2 minutes on top of the lanky, awkward, goofy, smiling horse-cousin, I began to re-think my whole plan. With each awkward step through the sand, my legs stretched a bit further out than they’re meant to and the pressure mounted in regions it never should. Once I became sufficiently number all over, I began to enjoy the vastness of my surrounds, as we rode through mostly arid dry-lands with low-lying shrubbery before happening upon patches of rolling dunes, with sand as soft as a SoCal beach.

There’s not all that much to do on a desert safari, aside from marvel at the quirkiness of the camels and the utter simplicity of life in the desert. During break times, unruly camels in our crew would try their best to scavenge through the supplies, wander off as far their tied up legs would allow, or simply roll in the dirt before being relieved of their gear and food-laden saddle. Watching a camel attempt to gallop with its legs tied together while being chased by a camel boy is a sight to behold.

As the sun began to set, the heat finally became a bit more manageable, and we hung our turbans for the evening, lounging on the dunes as our meals were freshly prepared. We climbed the dunes and enjoyed the views over a couple special delivery beers and a pale blue sky. We reflected with the guide, as his affection for the desert was clear in his wanderings toward an empty patch of sand. Untouched landscape (save for the controversial windmills recently put up in the distance) had provided a home for his family for generations, every year at the whim of the rains and the brutal, ever-present sun. We made our beds on blankets at the top of a small dune, waiting for the stars to begin their nightly act, this time with about as unobstructed of a view as you can find. Satellites passed and I reflected on the notion that the same species that was living the most basic of lives in the most remote of places, completely dependent on the changing of the weather for nourishment and survival, that same species, put an object into space, over a hundred miles above our head, speeding along at miles per second, relaying or capturing information about our world, perhaps the weather patterns that would affect the very region I was lying in. I realized I was at the crossroads of this divide in human development, having lived a very simple life as of late, and especially in that moment, while at the same time fully aware that just last year I was working every day towards putting one of those very same satellites into space. While perhaps a bit cliché, I was reminded, as I often am, of one my favorite Macklemore lines:

“And when I lose perspective, need to go to a place where I lose reception…lookin’ at the satellites pass by, reflectin’ on my past life…”

Making our way back to Jaisalmer the next day, after another couple hours’ ride on a camel with a bit comfier seat and a quick game of 3 fly’s up with some local village children, I explored the Jaisalmer Fort in the blistering heat. The cow-filled narrow lanes and vantage points within the walls of the fort provided photo ops and an even stronger feeling of being lost in not just another land, but another time. A time and place where desert oases provided the nourishment and splendor that becomes so vital in the overwhelming and exhausting desert abyss.

Perspective regained, I hopped on the night train, on my way to yet another time and place…

Udaipur, India

I left the rain in Mumbai and headed north into the state of Rajasthan, where most of my Indian stops would take place. After a relatively easy 16-hour sleeper bus, I arrived in Udaipur unsure of what to expect after the craziness of Mumbai. By now, I see past the street manure and general omnipresence of flies, the trash in every gutter, and the poor health of all the street animals. What’s left is nothing but charm and fascination, as elephants share roads with camels and scooters, while cows do whatever they damn well please, even if that means taking a rest in the middle of a highway.

Udaipur is set around a beautiful lake, equipped with island palaces, a mountain backdrop, and colorful buildings that run right up against the ghats that lead down into the lake. The streets are filled with the same Frogger game of cows and tuk-tuks, only rather that thoroughfares, the action takes place on tiny, winding streets barely big enough for one vehicle. Horns blare and cows moo, but everything moves at such a slow pace that I can’t help but enjoy the charm of it all. The film location of a few movies and the setting for some celebrity weddings, Udaipur is without a doubt India at its most romantic. Activities are mostly contained to visiting the palaces and temples in the walkable lakeside area, but the main attraction is really the town itself. From the rooftop of my hostel, I looked out over the lake, bathers taking a swim, sun setting behind the mountains, bats making their nightly pilgrimage into the forests, and lights flickering from every other rooftop oasis. The only reason I ever left the perch on top of the hostel where I was staying was really only because I’d feel guilty not venturing out, even though my temporary piece of real estate offered all you could ever ask for.

So I soaked in the views, I contemplated, I ate delicious food (with my hands only, the Indian way), and I continued to have quirky interactions with awestruck Indians. The selfie request count hovers around 3-4 per day, as it must be something about the (very) white skin and light hair all wrapped up in a tank-top and headband that prevents me from blending in with the crowd. Everyone wants to know where I’m from, what I do, and where I’m going. Not all that different from a majority of the conversations fellow backpackers auto-ask in every hostel common room, now that I think of it. For the most part, it’s all just genuine curiosity, so I do my best to oblige in the conversation, even if I have to deny handing out my phone number or Facebook every now and then. If a short conversation, a headbob, and a handshake is all it takes to make a day, then I can deal with the ignoring of personal space and general western politeness.

After a massage and masala, I was on the road again…