Around (Cape) Town

“You Screeeaaam, I Brrrriiinnnnggg…ICE CREEEEAAAM!”

Lounging on a pristine stretch of blindingly white sand, protected from the wind by giant boulders left and right and the granite peaks of a new world wonder behind, a granadilla lollie (passionfruit popsicle) from one of the handful of rhyming and roaming beach vendors seemed like the natural choice. Having been in Cape Town for a week-plus by now, you’d think I would have grown accustomed to the movie-set scenery and delicious food, but I found myself unable to prevent my gaze from darting all around me as I gnawed on some frozen deliciousness. Do I re-count the “12 Apostles” stretching from Table Mountain down the coast, or try to spot hikers climbing Lion’s Head, or pick out which beach house to buy someday, or enjoy the crashing waves in front of me while digging my feet as far as possible into the soft sands? I’m not sure which view I decided I liked the most, but the decision process required more than one visit from the Ice Cream Man.

Cape Town is, undoubtedly, one of the most beautiful cities I’ve ever had the chance to visit. The setting is second to none, with multiple beaches, each having their own feel and backdrop, panoramas of Table Mountain from almost every neighborhood, and a saddle between that seems to split the city skyscrapers from the idyllic beach town. Everything you could ask for is within 10 minutes: beach, mountains, forests, gardens, fine dining, fish & chips shacks, city lights, and serene neighborhoods. It’s quite amazing how so much, and so many views, can be packed into such a manageable city center and surrounds.

Having been on the move for the better part of 3 months, we chose to kick our feet up a bit in Cape Town, opting for a couple different week-long stints in AirBnBs around town. We spent our days moseying to a Jazz brunch in an Old Victorian house turned restaurant, sipping cappuccinos in a Steampunk-inspired coffee shop that looked like a line at a Disneyland attraction, sampling gourmet chocolates while discovering a secret, nondescript gin bar nestled into the back courtyard, enjoying sundowners over the beach from a swanky rooftop bar, biking through city parks and the coastal promenade, and discerning which snacks to buy from waterfront market halls. While there are seemingly endless options for food and activities in the city, we spent a good amount of time simply relaxing inside. After months on the go, some recuperation was required, along with some home-cooked meals. My fried egg game had become a little rusty, but cooking our own meals, brewing our own coffee, and waking up with no pressure to go, go, go was just the shot in the arm needed after making it through the ups and downs of travel through Africa.

Each one of Cape Town’s neighborhoods provide their own appeal, from the brightly colored Bo-Kaap, to the edgy, but up-and-coming Woodstock, to the upscale Camps Bay, there’s something for every taste and preference. Cape Town manages to feel like somewhat of a small town through it all, where walking is manageable most anywhere you want to go. It’d be irresponsible however, to define Cape Town only by its trendy trappings, as behind the craft gin bars, colorful streets, and boutiques is a history of repression still very much visible today. The days of apartheid, amongst other extreme acts of segregation, saw entire, mostly Black, communities uprooted and moved into “Townships” outside of the city center. These townships remain today, throughout the city and country, and provide a stark contrast from the modern city centers and suburbs. Corrugated metal shacks, brightly painted in all different primary colors, sprawl for miles outside of the central business district. Residents are mostly black. Housing is extremely basic. Crime is rife. Adolescents are left with limited options, paving the way for gangs to flourish. You might understandably mistake yourself for being in Europe or any other developed nation wandering around the nicer neighborhoods, but, in reality, there’s simply a large bubble enveloping the stunning setting that’s made Cape Town globally famous.

I found it a bit difficult to pinpoint South African culture as compared to many of the other African nations we’ve travelled through to date. Is there a coffee culture? Is it a foodie paradise? A surf town? Outdoorsy? High Class? The answer, technically, would be Yes to all of the above, making for a great holiday and plenty of nice pictures, but, to me, there was something inauthentic about it all. It all felt a bit manufactured, like a “trendy, western city” blueprint was laid out and followed to a T. When, for the most part, the people participating in all of the activities that have made Cape Town famous are White, yet White people only make up 15% of the population in the city, you start to wonder what everyone else is doing, and where the doing is happening. Of course, with a bit more digging and steps off the beaten path, I’m sure it would have been possible to see more sides of Cape Town and its culture, but the city that 99% of tourists and Instagram feeds will see, outside of some museums, will be the one in which a small, specific percent of the population participates. Racial divides accompany divisions in income levels as well, making robberies an unfortunate reality of the city. While taking the normal precautions during sightseeing usually suffices, I was disappointed to learn how rampant muggings were within Table Mountain National Park, Cape Town’s icon. Nature typically provides a respite from the dangers of cities, but unfortunately, Cape Town has not been able to control thieves from entering the park and robbing guests of their valuables. With gun ownership the norm, a pleasant hike can become quite unnerving.

With all its scars, and perhaps some open wounds, Cape Town still shines as a stunner of a city. Saving our hikes for the end of our stay (in case we were robbed), we made our way up Table Mountain via a less travelled route, thanks to some insider information from siblings and friends. Hugging the coast with the 12 Apostles ahead, we made our way up the mountain to a precarious ledge for a few cliffhanger photos, before working our way to the top, where the cable car drops off all the cheaters. The views in all directions are expansive, with city meeting sea and peaks dropping straight down to the water on one side and into rolling hills on the other. Beautiful flora is everywhere, rock formations abound, and the countless peaks make sure you never run out of potential hikes. After loitering around at the top to take in the view as long as possible, we made our way down the other side of the mountain, dropping through Skeleton Gorge and out into Kirstenbosch gardens, probably the most beautiful botanical gardens I’ve seen, with summer concerts, movie nights, and picnic opportunities galore. While it took us all day, I’d be hard pressed to find a better day hike. The following day, we made our way up Lion’s Head, the 2nd most famous hike in town, with 360-degree views and a more intimate look at the city and its neighborhoods, as well as a front row seat to Table Mountain in all her glory. From the top of Lion’s Head, you can plan out your entire stay in Cape Town, pointing to your favorite of the Clifton beaches, the waterfront markets you want to try, the trail you want to take up Table Mountain, and of course, your future dream home in the hills of Camps Bay.

Our final Sundowner in Cape Town, in Africa for that matter, was atop Signal Hill, as we joined the throngs of Capetonians and tourists on the biggest picnic blanket known to man and bid farewell to the bright orange, unrelenting, African sun, and to a city that can’t help but glow in its rays…

Hangin' with Mr. Penguin

Who doesn’t love a penguin?

Few experiences can elicit the elation I felt swimming with the dusky dolphins in Kaikoura, New Zealand a few years ago, but I think those dolphins may have found some competition at Boulder’s Beach in Cape Town, South Africa.

Like a toddler in an oversized tuxedo shirt, every move and mannerism of penguin’s life is just…awkward, in about the cutest way imaginable. Waddling to the crashing waves at the shore, it’s easy to tell that the penguin is unsure of when to make his move. When he does, it’s usually a faceplant into the sea, like someone given a push with their ankles and wrists tied up. Slightly uneven ground makes for a comical display of pushing, shoving, and body bumps as each penguin vies for its space on the crowded beaches or rocks. Back and forth from the shore to the sea, a tumble here, a tumble there, such is the life of a penguin.

A colony of these loveable goons have made their home in and around Boulder’s Beach, on the outskirts of Cape Town. Walkways have been put in place to protect both the animals and the humans (turns out, the penguin bite if you piss them off). Watching from slightly above the beach is a spectacle in and of itself, but the real fun requires a bit of swimming during high tide. Boulder’s Beach itself is exactly what you might think, a small stretch of sand scattered with massive, almost round boulders seemingly dropped directly into the sea. I’d never experienced a beach quite like it, and if it weren’t for the penguins, I’d be quite content staring at the natural serenity of it all. Upon arrival at the beach, we spotted just a few penguins hanging out on a nearby boulder, but were a bit disappointed in the fact that there weren’t many penguins, but also that the tide seemed to block off most of the beach. Due to the white-capped and wavy sea, not to mention the sharks in the area, kayaking around wasn’t exactly an option, so naturally (after some encouraging), we took the plunge into the chilly waters to swim in between the boulders in search of some new penguin friends.

As always, as soon as the slight turn off the beaten track is taken, rewards await. Wading through the Boulders, we eventually found ourselves on an even smaller stretch of sand, this one inhabited with dozens of goofy new friends. The penguins paid us no almost mind as we sat on the sand and watched them go about their business surrounding us. Groups waddled around while others took turns with their morning laps, losing all awkwardness as soon as they found themselves under the water, darting faster than you ever thought a penguin could swim. Taking another dip, I watched the little guys spiral past me in the water, not exactly happy about my presence, but clearly not disturbed either. We sat on the shore for as long as we could, simply watching the quirkiness of another exotic to our American eyes, but normal to Africa animal, with the standard beautiful backdrop to boot. It seems as though, no matter where you are, from top to bottom, this continent simply excels when it comes to its display of wildlife in picturesque surrounds.

Swimming lessons complete, the city life was calling our name…

The Garden Route

Driving along perfectly paved roads, equipped with newly painted lines, shoulders, and stop lights, we pulled into a roadside farmstand, ordered an iced coffee, plopped down on some happy sacks in the middle of a bright garden equipped with pop-up shops inside old double-decker buses and promptly wondered where the hell we’d been transported.

Surely, this was not Africa.

Where were the chaotic and potholed streets, the overfilled taxi vans, and the screaming roadside vendors? Where were the cattle in the road, or the wandering baboons, or the brightly-colored kitengue headpieces? And what was the deal with all these well-marked prices next to every menu option?

Spending a week along the Garden Route in South Africa felt more like a drive along the California Coast, or the Great Ocean Road in Australia, rather than anything else we’d experienced during the last few months in Africa. Beautiful granite peaks slope gently into the sea, as small towns nestle themselves into valleys or along the jagged coastline. The sea is expansive, stretching east, west, and south all the way to Antarctica. Farmstands are the norm along the route, equipped with delicious goodies, drinks, art, and knick-knacks to enjoy. Enjoying an aperitif at an oceanside bar strewn along the rocks above a natural pool before strolling to dinner along a quaint little promenade, we were humorously reminded we were still in Africa when we had to pay a voluntary “car guard” to look after our car while we walked around to ensure it would not be broken into during the evening. Ah, Africa.

We journeyed inland to aptly-named Wilderness, camping along a gently flowing river that led to waterfalls one way, and the sea the other. We climbed high in to the heads of Knysna for commanding views out into the seas and back into the mountains. We stopped for seafood in Mossel Bay as we watched kids play in the natural rock pools protected from the crashing waves of the white-cap ocean behind. All along the route, rivers flow down from the mountains into the sea, providing ample kayaking and river activities or beach lounging opportunities, whichever you prefer. The route is altogether idyllic, with good, affordable food, wonderful views of landscapes and ocean wildlife, all sorts of outdoor activities, and quiet towns that make it quite easy to get away from it all for a bit.

We happened upon one campsite that might have belonged in a cult documentary, as everyone seemed to be just a little too happy and friendly, even with the beautiful forest views in all directions. Makeshift stages, love treehouses, hikes to big trees you were meant to give big hugs to, and fairy waterfalls were just a few of the activities on the menu at the camp. We were waiting for a shaman to show up for midnight moon-chanting or the like, but alas, we settled for an early night in the tent.

I’d hoped to get the chance to see or swim with the Great White sharks along the way, however it’d been over a year since a great white had been spotted in the area, as the beasts seemed to have disappeared from the bays they had grown famous for hanging in. After up close and personal experiences with lions and gorillas, I could, thankfully, stomach missing out on the Great Whites.

From wilderness to wine cellars, we left our tent behind for a couple days in Stellenbosch, a university town in the heart of South African wine country, where quaint, tree-lined streets provide shade to al-fresco dining options galore. The surrounding hills produce stunning views, not to mention great wine, with a little flair to boot. Chocolate pairings and generous pours at the foot of granite peaks overlooking the sea in the distance, what more could you ask for? In the midst of our 10-course, fine-dining experience that cost about as much as San Francisco take-out, it was clear we’d somehow made the transition to the good life, if just for a week or two. We sipped wines, enjoyed the abundance of well-manicured lawns and flowers, and listened to our stomachs thank us for replacing fried foods with fresh salads.

A week on the route went by in a flash, as the travel became less hectic and life on the road felt more like a weekend away than an arduous journey. Driving back, we took the scenic route of the scenic route, through Chapman’s Peak, to the destination we’d been moving towards for the three months prior…to the end of Africa, to Cape Town…