Some places carry with them a mystique that’s hard to pin down. They exude an aura of mystery, of wonder, of beauty that is only truly understood when you’re sitting in the midst of it all. Machu Picchu carries this mystique, this aura. I can now confidently say that I’ve found another place on Earth with the same gravity.
The 2000 some odd temples of Bagan, Myanmar dot the vast plain like constellations in the night sky. From each vantage point in the 40 square mile area, a new perspective, a slightly different, yet every bit as inspiring a landscape can be found. The temples are remnants from a golden era, when the wealthy region was home to 7-8 times more temples, each belonging to one of the city’s families. The decorations have long since faded, but the simple, red brick foundations have, for the most part, lasted the test of time. Today, some families still remain, as fields are plowed outside basic huts that sit next to 1000-year old temples.
Bagan is a backpacker’s kind of tourist destination. Especially in the low season, the freedom allotted to explore and create your own custom itinerary, with no time limits or restrictions, is exhilarating. Electric scooters are available for just a couple dollars a day. With a charge that lasts (almost) all day, the dirt roads lead you on a treasure hunt of limitless possibilities. Roads turn to tracks, which turn into crop fields, which turn into, in my case at least, empty and overgrown river beds that are somewhat difficult to maneuver through. No matter, once the path was found again, it was off to another set of awe-inspiring temples and views to match. These side tracks are free of tour buses and sensible tourists, leaving only the adventurous spirits keen on exploring the mystery of it all. Sun up to sun down was spent navigating the maze of must-sees and hidden gems, with both the start and finish of each day spent atop the perch our small crew’s temporary private temple.
I imagine that, as Myanmar grows into the tourist destination it’s bound to become, the experience of Bagan will change. Roads will be paved, restrictions will be set, paths will be blocked, and temples will be closed. The magic will still remain, though the adventure may not. I think it’s this combination that brought me such contentment to me during my stay. Completely in my element racing around nearly untouched land, while at the same time being constantly inspired by the mystery and beauty that surrounded me, smack dab in the middle of what would no doubt be a wonder of the world, if not for some shabby reconstruction and conservation efforts.
As we raced across the plain in search of the perfect sunset temple, we passed a fellow group of backpackers that had laid claim to a temple of their own. Joining them at the top, we all sat in awe of the view and the moment. A group of adventurous souls, from all around the world, gathered on the top of 1000-year old temple in the middle of a vast plain protected by distant mountain ranges, sharing playful banter about our origin countries and staring in silence as the sun disappeared behind mountains and dusk settled on the land of spires and mystery. Another day in the books, not soon to be forgotten.
Damn, it feels good to be a traveler.