thailand

The Elephant Nature Park

I’ve always been of the opinion that, in a perfect world, I’d have 4 pets: A dog, of course, followed by a penguin, a monkey, and a miniature elephant. After this trip, I am fairly certain I never want to be near a monkey again for a very long time, as those devilish thieves would eat all my food and steal by clothes the second I left the house. There’s no resisting a waddling penguin, though, which I was able to confirm during my South American adventure a couple years ago. The last confirmation required was none other than the gentle giants themselves, the most revered animal in Southeast Asia, the elephant. Yes, I am aware that miniature elephants don’t exist, but this is my blog, not yours.

During my travels in the region, I came to understand that elephant tourism is, in most cases, quite unethical. In order to tame and train the elephants, there’s a fairly cruel and grotesque process that more or less kills the elephant’s spirit and puts them at the whim of their Mahout (and his dagger) at all times. For this reason, I chose to visit the Elephant Nature Park, where riding the elephants or watching them do tricks is prohibited. We spent the day feeding and observing, up close and personal, many elephants that had been rescued from performances, logging, and the streets of Thailand. Most bore some sort of scar from the experience, from tumors, to broken legs, to mental instability. They were all, for the most part, docile as they roamed freely around the reserve. Herds stuck together, and we were able to visit a few of them, either feeding one a mid-morning snack of about 50 cucumbers and 30 watermelons, or watching a mom-nanny-baby combo roll in the mud and wash themselves in the river. There’s nothing quite like watching an elephant throw mud on its own back before rolling around in the river. The creatures are unequivocally fascinating. Incredibly powerful and enormous, yet impossible not to laugh at with their mannerisms and movements.

I was content to simply watch the beasts, but I wasn’t about to turn down a chance to step into the river with them for a little washing. Splashing water on the tough, wrinkled skin was about the most fun I’ve had washing an animal. I was secretly hoping one would spray me with water from its trunk, but alas, I stayed reasonably dry. As the day wound to an end, the numerous rescue dogs began racing across the fields, baiting the elephants to chase them, an offer to which they obliged. If only a penguin would have been riding that elephant as it rumbled after the nimble dog. The pinnacle of pet combos, my new trifecta, would have been realized. I guess for now, though, I’ll just have to settle for watching non-miniature, river-bathing, dog-chasing elephants.

Things could be worse.

Chiang Mai & Pai, Thailand

Crossing back over into Thailand, after a month and a half in Cambodia, Vietnam, and Laos, I was immediately struck by how developed it all felt. Roads with lines. Orderly traffic. Stop lights that were actually abided by. Cafes lined streets, offering more than just rice curries and fake pizza. Sitting in a western café that could have easily been back on the Hermosa pier, looking across the table and out into the street filled with westerners, I had a slight bit of culture shock. Feelings and confusion usually reserved for the first day or two after returning home from a long trip were flooding my mind. My understanding of familiarity and the western world has clearly been skewed, as I imagine that if I’d shown up in Chiang Mai 2 or 3 months ago I’d have been wowed by how different and foreign everything felt. It made me feel quite anxious about returning home, if this little taste of western culture in the southeast was having such an effect.

Chiang Mai is a university city in the north of Thailand. Extravagant, golden pagodas, great (and cheap) food, and a buzzing nightlife characterize a city that has been called home by many an ex-pat. Aside from the slight bit of culture shock, I was elated to be back in Thailand. Delicious food, even better massages, reliable wi-fi, paved roads, and unbeatable hospitality make travelling in Thailand a breeze. Hopping back on a motorbike, I ventured up the mountain to the Doi Suthep temple, surprised to see just how sprawling Chiang Mai was, as the old city, self-contained within a surrounding moat, made it feel like nothing more than a small town. A 30-minute ride outside the city lies the “Grand Canyon” of Chiang Mai, a former mining area filled with water and tourists making the 30-foot leap into the cool water below. A great way to cool off from the sweltering heat, and not be bothered by the afternoon downpours I’ve become used to by now.

After a few days in Chiang Mai, I made my way up to Pai, a hippie mountain town about 3 hours by scooter away from the city. The drive was freeing, with the mountain air gradually cooling more and more the further I climbed into the mountains. Locally grown coffee shops tucked in the hills serve as perfect respites from the steep, windy drive. Arriving in Pai, I had nothing on my agenda. Nobody does really, as the only necessary activities are to eat good food, enjoy relaxing drinks, and chat with good company. I splurged (read: spent 10 dollars) on a private bungalow situated on a hill above the city, enjoying my deck, hammock and all, listening to the mountain sounds and enjoying the ability to do nothing at all. A short scooter ride in the surrounding areas leads to hot springs, treehouses, elephants, Buddhas, and waterfalls. The main streets in town have their share of western comforts with a Thai twist, with every café or restaurant guaranteed to contain at least one westerner that came to Pai and never left.

I allowed my mind to wander a bit, reflecting on the entirety of my trip, the people that have so heavily influenced it, and whether or not I was ready to come home. I reached a frame of mind that can often be very difficult to capture: both the excitement of what was to come in my travels, as well as the eagerness to be going home. It’s the feeling of playing with house money. I feel no pressure to see more, to experience something new, to gain some enlightening new perspective. I am perfectly content with what I’ve lived, regardless of what the next few weeks and countries hold, which I am sure will be unique in their own right.

With this zen-like feeling, I booked my flight home. I’m not quite ready to share the when and the where, though, as I believe plans should always have a little wiggle room for an unanticipated change of heart…

(Free) Diving

After bidding farewell to my friend and the boat, I was solo once again, continuing to live the island life, this time off the east coast of Thailand. I headed to Ko Tao, the diving capital of Thailand, and maybe the world. I opted for Free Diving, with the opportunity to travel into the depths without the aide of scuba gear and oxygen. I arrived for the 2-day course with the hopes of learning a few new skills in breath holding and open water swimming. Within the first couple hours, I had held my breath for nearly 2:30, about 3 times longer than I’d ever been able to accomplish in the past. I was content to call it good at that point, but we were just getting started.

The first day out on the water was choppy at best. Maintaining the relaxed breathing became much more of a challenge as the current required a death grip on the buoy. Nevertheless, I made my way down the rope, reaching a depth of over 30 feet, where a deep blue calm surrounded me. It was both thrilling and mesmerizing at the same time. Unfortunately, it was very challenging for me to equalize the pressure in my ears while my head was upside down, so swimming straight down became a nonstarter, and eventually, even keeping my head upright was too painful at depths without equalization.

The next day, I achieved my personal best underwater breath hold of 3:16, something I still can’t believe I did as I write this. The technique is actually not even that difficult, I’m happy to give some unofficial lessons whenever I return if anybody is interested. Back in the water, I was able to equalize a bit better, but still struggled with my head straight down. I made it down to almost 45 feet, though, before calling it a day in the depths. While I won’t be becoming a professional free diver anytime soon, I look forward to a little extra snorkeling time underwater, and perhaps a few pool tricks back home…

I took my course with Blue Immersion Freediving on Ko Tao, Thailand. Highly recommended.