road trip

Chasing Peaks

After completing the West Coast Highway, we turned inland, through Wanaka, and back north, this time on the eastern face of the Southern Alps range. As I’ve now come to expect, the scene changed dramatically. The hills became arid as we carved through valleys surprisingly devoid of sheep. Greens turned to yellows, as drastic peaks began emerging from the flatlands.

Back in the states, I’d watched a show on Netflix titled, Departures, that followed two young travelers on their trips around the world. I vividly remember the episode on New Zealand, and a scene that involved some air guitar in an arid valley with the backdrop of a massive peak. In my search to re-create this scene, minus the air guitar and plus a shirt, I constantly veered off to the side of the road, thinking this must be the place. As it turns out, that scene was actually filmed on the North Island. Go figure.

Not to be bothered, my roadside detours continued as the backdrop was just too good to pass up. Upon arrival at Lake Pukaki, a bluer than blue lake at the foot of Mt. Cook, we detoured into the mountains to set up our room with a view for the evening, before embarking on a short day hike up to the foot of fog-laden Mt. Cook the following day. No matter, it seems as though when the panoramas are hidden by the weather, it’s easier to notice the simple beauty right in front of your face, like mountain parrots and low-rise rainbows.

As the weather cleared and the afternoon sun lingered, we made south for Queenstown, where adventure and adrenaline await. Another road trip in the books, this one filled with everything from glowworms to glaciers, lakes more brilliant than the clear sky in Montana, and an unanticipated addition: Good Company.

West Coastin'

The rocky cliffs of the West Coast are draped in dense forests, interrupted by the Southern Alps containing New Zealand’s biggest peaks, namely, Mt. Cook. It seems as though every hour or so, the scenery changes, with something new and spectacular to see. The Pancake Rock formations added a little mystery to the setting, while the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers were a stern reminder of the power and scale of our alpine surroundings. Throw in some beach sunsets and lake reflections, and it becomes difficult for the senses to keep up.

In my attempt to process the scene unfolding before me, what strikes me most isn’t necessarily one sight in particular. I’ve yet to think to myself that what I’m seeing is surely better than anything I’ve witnessed or experienced before. The mountains of Patagonia are more striking. The Whitsunday beaches more heavenly. The Swiss landscape a deeper green. The Amalfi Coast roads more precarious. What’s most baffling is that all of these almost-as-good landscapes were a part of a 3 hour drive down the coast. Not only that, there’s nothing particularly special about this given 3-hour stretch. Close your eyes and point to a place on the New Zealand map and odds are you’re going to find the same diversity of scenery within a 100 kilometer radius. Travelling New Zealand by car is truly the epitome of sensory overload. I can’t stop taking photos. It’s almost as though at this point I’m more irked that it’s even possible for one tiny country to contain this much geographic diversity and photo ops. Just stop it, already.

At some point, I’m hoping I find a long stretch of road, like I-5 carving its way up through central California, with nothing in particular to see but open space, where I can relax the senses for just long enough to exhale and mentally recover before arriving at the next panorama.

As it stands now, though, I’m not holding my breath…

The Road Beckons

After ditching the car for a few days while swimming with the dolphins in Kaikoura, I quickly corrected my mistake once I made it down to Christchurch. After picking up a hometown friend from the airport, off we went into the countryside, up and over Arthur’s Pass and down towards the West Coast, where mountains, glaciers, and pancakes await.

By virtue of a late start and dumb luck, we found camp on the first evening just below the pass, where there happened to be a short trail that led to a riverbank inhabited by glowworms. Unlike my previous experience in the cave, this time the glowworms spread out all around, just a finger’s length away. As our eyes adjusted, the glowworms multiplied, as though clouds in the night sky were drifting away to reveal the Milky Way. Constellations appeared almost directly over our heads, adding a bit to the confusion as to whether we were still outside along the river or perhaps somehow inside some sort of cave. As the headlamps came on, the glow dimmed and the riverbank came back into focus, the glowworm sky once again hidden to the un-adjusted eye.

Back on the road again in the morning, the mountains gave way to rocky coastline, dense green forest, sunshine, and anticipation for what the road held in store for us next.