travel

(Business) Lounging

Sometimes I feel like I’m cheating. The life of a backpacker really shouldn’t be a pampered one. Crammed accommodation, creaky beds, and cheap transport are necessary to make a 6 month trip a reality. It’s always worth it in the end, but at times things can be uncomfortable, tiring, annoying, and frustrating.

Unless you cheat.

Prior to my retirement, I spent the better part of a year and a half flying to work each week, racking up airline miles, hotel points, and statuses along the way. With miles come free flights, with points come free nights, and with status comes access. Access to business lounges with free food, free internet, and free showers.

The lounges were never more useful than on my recent string of layovers on my way from New Zealand to Darwin, Australia. In order to use the least amount of miles while still flying in business class, I was going to have a 12-hour layover in Sydney, and another 12-hour layover in Melbourne. After a 5am breakfast in the Wellington lounge, I spent the day in Sydney, re-living the beginning of my trip, before heading back to the lounge for some dinner prior to my comfy ride to Melbourne. True to my backpacker roots, I broke out the sleeping pad and bag and set up camp in the deserted airport coffee shop, as all facilities in the airport had closed. There was no way I was paying for a trip into town and a hotel room, c’mon. A somewhat decent night’s sleep later, I made my way to the lounge for a nice breakfast, a warm shower, and a cappuccino, before hopping into my seat, reclining foot rest included.

In a 24-hour period, I think I partook in activities that would repulse both a businessman and a backpacker. Or perhaps make them envious, I’m not sure. I’ve decided to name this peculiar lounge-dwelling, floor sleeping traveler:

The BusinessBum.

As they say, if you ain’t cheatin’ you ain’t tryin…

Chasing Peaks

After completing the West Coast Highway, we turned inland, through Wanaka, and back north, this time on the eastern face of the Southern Alps range. As I’ve now come to expect, the scene changed dramatically. The hills became arid as we carved through valleys surprisingly devoid of sheep. Greens turned to yellows, as drastic peaks began emerging from the flatlands.

Back in the states, I’d watched a show on Netflix titled, Departures, that followed two young travelers on their trips around the world. I vividly remember the episode on New Zealand, and a scene that involved some air guitar in an arid valley with the backdrop of a massive peak. In my search to re-create this scene, minus the air guitar and plus a shirt, I constantly veered off to the side of the road, thinking this must be the place. As it turns out, that scene was actually filmed on the North Island. Go figure.

Not to be bothered, my roadside detours continued as the backdrop was just too good to pass up. Upon arrival at Lake Pukaki, a bluer than blue lake at the foot of Mt. Cook, we detoured into the mountains to set up our room with a view for the evening, before embarking on a short day hike up to the foot of fog-laden Mt. Cook the following day. No matter, it seems as though when the panoramas are hidden by the weather, it’s easier to notice the simple beauty right in front of your face, like mountain parrots and low-rise rainbows.

As the weather cleared and the afternoon sun lingered, we made south for Queenstown, where adventure and adrenaline await. Another road trip in the books, this one filled with everything from glowworms to glaciers, lakes more brilliant than the clear sky in Montana, and an unanticipated addition: Good Company.

West Coastin'

The rocky cliffs of the West Coast are draped in dense forests, interrupted by the Southern Alps containing New Zealand’s biggest peaks, namely, Mt. Cook. It seems as though every hour or so, the scenery changes, with something new and spectacular to see. The Pancake Rock formations added a little mystery to the setting, while the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers were a stern reminder of the power and scale of our alpine surroundings. Throw in some beach sunsets and lake reflections, and it becomes difficult for the senses to keep up.

In my attempt to process the scene unfolding before me, what strikes me most isn’t necessarily one sight in particular. I’ve yet to think to myself that what I’m seeing is surely better than anything I’ve witnessed or experienced before. The mountains of Patagonia are more striking. The Whitsunday beaches more heavenly. The Swiss landscape a deeper green. The Amalfi Coast roads more precarious. What’s most baffling is that all of these almost-as-good landscapes were a part of a 3 hour drive down the coast. Not only that, there’s nothing particularly special about this given 3-hour stretch. Close your eyes and point to a place on the New Zealand map and odds are you’re going to find the same diversity of scenery within a 100 kilometer radius. Travelling New Zealand by car is truly the epitome of sensory overload. I can’t stop taking photos. It’s almost as though at this point I’m more irked that it’s even possible for one tiny country to contain this much geographic diversity and photo ops. Just stop it, already.

At some point, I’m hoping I find a long stretch of road, like I-5 carving its way up through central California, with nothing in particular to see but open space, where I can relax the senses for just long enough to exhale and mentally recover before arriving at the next panorama.

As it stands now, though, I’m not holding my breath…

The Road Beckons

After ditching the car for a few days while swimming with the dolphins in Kaikoura, I quickly corrected my mistake once I made it down to Christchurch. After picking up a hometown friend from the airport, off we went into the countryside, up and over Arthur’s Pass and down towards the West Coast, where mountains, glaciers, and pancakes await.

By virtue of a late start and dumb luck, we found camp on the first evening just below the pass, where there happened to be a short trail that led to a riverbank inhabited by glowworms. Unlike my previous experience in the cave, this time the glowworms spread out all around, just a finger’s length away. As our eyes adjusted, the glowworms multiplied, as though clouds in the night sky were drifting away to reveal the Milky Way. Constellations appeared almost directly over our heads, adding a bit to the confusion as to whether we were still outside along the river or perhaps somehow inside some sort of cave. As the headlamps came on, the glow dimmed and the riverbank came back into focus, the glowworm sky once again hidden to the un-adjusted eye.

Back on the road again in the morning, the mountains gave way to rocky coastline, dense green forest, sunshine, and anticipation for what the road held in store for us next.

Swimming with Dolphins

After my whirlwind trip around the North Island, I made the crossing from Wellington through the Marlborough sounds, arriving in my home for the next month: The South Island. As I’ve mentioned, the South Island is meant to be the more beautiful of the two. We’ll see about that…

I arrived in sleepy Kaikoura in the afternoon, struck by the massive mountains that loom over the rocky coast. Tucked in the shadow of the mountains lies a town known for both its sea life and seafood. Dolphins, Whales, Seals, and Crayfish are the main draws of the area, and, walking into my hostel, I’d given in to the reality that my lack of planning ahead was going to cost me my chance to do something that’d been on many previous versions of my bucket list: Swim with wild dolphins. While all the tours were booked for the foreseeable future, I was given a glimmer of hope as the hostel receptionist called in to put me on the wait-list. Fingers crossed for good weather and cancellations.

As I walked the coastline out to the seal colony the following morning, I received the call I’d been hoping for. A spot had opened up in the next tour, an hour from now. Naturally, I was 45 minutes out of town, so a brisk (and sweaty) walk was required to make it back in time to hop on the boat and head out to sea.

I’ve been having a difficult time putting words to the euphoria I felt being dropped into a pod of well over 100 dolphins swimming, jumping, and back-flipping all around me. Nearly the entire time in the water, I was border-line hyperventilating trying to keep up with each passing cluster of the happiest animals in the world. At one point, I began spinning in circles, only to have one of my new-found friends follow my twirls for a couple rounds before deciding it was time to leap a few feet out of the water and move on to the next party. The raucous was never-ending, as each time I assumed the dolphins had moved on, I’d pop my head out of the water to see an onslaught of fins headed my way. Pure elation is really the only way I can describe my state of mind.

After being called back to the boat, we watched the pod from a new vantage point, a front row seat to the endless spectacle of flips, spins, and jumps that seem to be the only items on these creatures’ daily agendas.

And I thought I had it good...

Traveler or Transient?

Self-identifying as a backpacker has a certain nostalgia associated with it. There’s an aura of freedom, maybe even a little adventure. Some may think you’re brave, or exciting, or just plain lucky. Driving the New Zealand countryside over the last week, as my rear-view mirror was, most likely illegally, obstructed with bags, clothes, and sleeping pads strewn about in the back of the car, I had to chuckle a bit. Three days removed from my last shower, having just contorted my way from my sleeping bag in the not-quite-long-enough backseat of my hatchback Corolla into the driver’s side, I had a bit of an inner dialogue trying to make the determination whether I was simply a typical backpacker to be slightly envious of, or if I was actually just a glorified homeless person. The jury is still out, but as it stands now, I have no job and no home address of my own. The time and location of my next shower is a mystery. I would imagine in some states, depending on how you look at it, this might qualify me as being legally homeless.

Speaking of which, perspective can be a funny thing. Before I crawled into my bed/backseat one evening, I looked around the campsite and, as I’d done each night before, looked up. As it had the previous night, and the night before that, and the night before that, the Milky Way dominated the night sky. I’d be hard-pressed to remember the last time I’d seen the Milky Way for a week straight. As I gazed, I had a bit of a realization that, while I am not always present to see it, this spectacular light show happens every single night. The stars are always there. The beauty is always there. Wonder and awe is waiting to be experienced by someone, somewhere, with every passing night. More often than not, though, they’re hidden. City lights. Cloudy skies. Bitter cold. The comfort of the roof over our head. These obstructions, both real and notional, keep us from experiencing what is ever-presently waiting to be enjoyed.

Coming back down to Earth, I’d like to think the same goes for the experiences of travel. Or really, whatever you may find beauty in, but never seem to grasp. It’s there, waiting. Every day and every night. Perhaps you have an obstacle in the way, like the clouds so often block the Milky Way, but I believe it imperative to realize that your adventure, your experience, your treasure, is there for the taking. It just might take a little change in scenery. And maybe some stinky shirts.

If a few missed showers and a backseat that doubles as both a bed and a closet is all it takes to grab hold of my own adventure, then a transient I shall be…

Glowworm Caves

As time goes on, I’m starting to not buy the whole narrative of the North Island not being nearly as beautiful as the south. In less than a week, I’ve managed to island hop, explore the Kauri forests, pass by giant sand dunes, dig a hole on the beach and have it fill with piping hot water, cross over volcanoes, and drive through more majestically green sheep-filled hills than I imagined existed. Perhaps I will stand corrected when I make it to the south, but the north is most definitely nothing to shake a stick at.

The final adventure on the north was not something that could be seen from the highway. This adventure involved abseiling 100 feet down into the caves of Waitamo. Upon descending into the cave, zip-lining over, then jumping into the river below, I was transported into a world of what looked like stars dotting the sky, and peculiarly, the walls surrounding me. Only, we weren’t outside. We were deep in the ground, devoid of light. And these weren’t stars, but glowworms. Hundreds of glowworms illuminating the caves like constellations for Captain Cook. Looking up from my floaty, I could make out the contours of the cave all around me. Not from actually being able to see them, but from the glowworms stuck in every nook and cranny. It was captivating staring up into the glowing sky in complete silence, save the quiet murmur of the river upstream. Once again, I’d been transported into a world foreign to any other I’d experienced before.

Following the glowworm spectacle, the adventure was back on, as we spent a couple hours exploring through the cave, scaling waterfalls, spotting eels, squeezing into far-too-tight spaces, and just generally enjoying navigating a maze 100 ft. below the ground in the pitch dark. Finally, we emerged out of the ground through a nondescript stream that so non-nonchalantly disguised what it had hidden in its depths.

Back up to the surface, I was on the road again…

Tongariro Crossing

Touted as New Zealand’s best 1-day walk, the Tongariro Crossing is a one-way journey up and over 3, most definitely active, volcanoes. Completing the crossing can be tricky, as gales often prevent trekkers from making it across. Thankfully, I could not have had better weather, as the skies were crystal clear from sunrise through to late afternoon.

I began the trek just before sunrise, with the dawn light silhouetting the ominous peak that lay in front of me. As day broke and I climbed higher, the views of the valley below, spotted with distant peaks, were soon to be hidden as I crossed a saddle into what looked like the surface of the moon. Barren flatland, maybe a dozen football fields wide and long, was dotted with strange boulders that had one time been blown from the surrounding volcanoes. The colorless landscape would have been especially creepy in the fog, but thankfully I had nothing but blue skies ahead.

After crossing the wasteland, one more climb lay ahead before I reached the high point of the trek. After a bit of a scramble, I stood at the top of the crossing, an ominous volcano to my right, a deep red crater just below, and a series of brightly colored lakes, flanked in steam from the vents down to my left. It was striking. I felt tiny, yet at the same time powerful, as though I was feeding off the energy of the peak. For Lord of the Rings fans, yes, that is Mount Doom. And I may or may not have tried to throw a ring inside…

After an extended lunch at the top, I made my way down the mountain, around the lakes that contained more colors than an artist’s pallet, and over to the other side, with Lake Taupo off in the distance serving as a constant backdrop to my descent. The last few kilometers of the trek passed through dense forest, yet another landscape contained within the trek.

After finishing the crossing, I rode the shuttle bus back to my car, and took off for my next adventure.

A shower can wait, there’s no rest for a traveler on a mission.

The Shire

Being that I am in Middle Earth and all, I thought it necessary to pay a visit to the Hobbits down at the Shire. Truly in the middle of nowhere, a small farm was transformed into the Shire for the famous Lord of the Rings trilogy that was released in the early 2000’s. Hordes of fans, nerds, and tourists flock to Hobbiton to check out the preserved set.

Expecting to be underwhelmed, I was mistaken. Dozens of Hobbit holes dot the hillside, all intricately designed and maintained. It’s quite big as well, as the tour took well over an hour to walk through it all, finishing off with a drink on the lake looking out over the cozy village. Though there was no sign of Frodo or Bilbo, I must say the Hobbits chose a great setting for the Shire, as I wouldn’t mind living there one bit, enjoying the view of the rolling pastures and lakeside.

If only I could fit through the doors…

Welcome to New Zealand

Just like that, a month has already passed in my retirement, and with it, my time in Australia. Without fail, no matter how much time I plan in a given country, it’s never enough. There’s always more to see, more to experience, more to add to the list. Thankfully, I can always return, and perhaps I will sooner rather than later.

As for now, though, it’s on to greener pastures (literally). Upon arrival in New Zealand, I was immediately struck by how green most everything on the North Island was. Greens I hadn’t seen since my time in Switzerland and Austria however many years ago. Rolling hills running into dense forests, up to scraggly peaks, back down into rolling hills, the sheer amount of open space on such a small land mass is truly refreshing.

The best way to experience the heart of what New Zealand has to offer is to drive its roads. So, I rented a car/home for a week, and off I went, zig-zagging my way from Auckland down to Wellington, the major hubs and the tips of the north island. My first stop was at the Bay of Islands, a string of islands out along the coast, with bright green hills and dolphin-filled turquoise waters. Cruising straight under the “Hole in the Rock” and scaling islands for some impressive panoramas made for a great introduction to New Zealand. Apparently, it only gets more beautiful as you head south.

I have a feeling I’m going to like it here…

Byron to Brisbane

After storming my way down the East Coast, it was time to hit the brakes a bit to recharge. Of all places to accomplish such a mission, I think Byron Bay is most likely near the top of that list. A justifiably famous surf town, Byron is filled with surfboards, shops, free spirits, and perhaps a few lost souls. The thing that’s clearly non-existent is stress. When the front page of the local newspaper has a headline story reminding the town that they better get used to the recent easterly swells in the surf, you sort of get the feeling priorities may be a little different in these parts.

Unfortunately, the timing for my visit wasn’t the best, as I endured a few days of (mostly) on and off rain storms that kept me indoors more than I’d hoped. As it was, I still found enough clear skies to play some beach volleyball, get tossed around in the surf, and lay claim to my section of the beach. Even through the rain, it was easy to see why so many residents had chosen Byron as the place to make the switch from traveler to transplant.

Following my time in Byron, I made the short journey to the last stop on my Australia itinerary: Brisbane. The third of Australia’s major cities, Brisbane is doing its best to catch up to the beauty and culture that is Sydney and Melbourne.  My draw to Brisbane, though, was not to experience an up and coming Australian city, but to catch up with some great mates I’d met during my previous travels in South America, where friendly exchange rates translated to daily steaks and free-flowing Malbec.

There’s something unique about the friendships you make while travelling. Spending no more than a Monday and Tuesday with a fellow traveler in some random country can build bonds that last longer and be stronger than those with the people you may see on a daily basis. I believe this stems from the vulnerability revealed when one finds themselves in an unfamiliar place, with unfamiliar people. Guards are dropped, perspectives are adopted, and something wonderful happens: humanity remains. No judgments, no reservations, no preconceived opinions. Humanity in its rawest form produces the best of comraderie, independent of the time dimension. I’ve met many fellow travelers that I would gladly open up my home to at the drop of a hat, and have been lucky enough to receive the same treatment from great friends during travels of my own.

Aside from an addition to the family (and 2 more on the way!), it was as if two years ago was yesterday. We spent 2 days reminiscing and trying to recall South America, and the group ensured I was given the local treatment. Frequent visits to the local pubs, a lesson in Rugby, a Wheat-Bix challenge, the TimTam slam, some kangaroo barbecue, and even a little bit of golf made for a great few days in the city.  I only hope I can return the favor once I convince the crew to visit in California.

Thanks Al, Tim, and Lena!  

…I did manage to get at least one touristy thing into my Brisbane itinerary, as I wasn’t going to leave Australia without hanging out with some Koalas and Kangaroos!

Fraser Island

After getting back to shore from the Whitsundays, I had a couple hours to kill before moving on. So, in true backpacker fashion, I cleaned up in the outdoor showers at the town lagoon, grabbed some dinner at the grocery store, and waited for my 18-hour bus. The time surprisingly passed fairly quickly, even with the lack of sleep, and after passing at least a million gum trees, I arrived in Rainbow Beach, the jump off point for visiting Fraser Island.

Fraser island is the largest sand island in the world, covered in an array of different landscapes, ranging from dunes to rainforest. The island is accessible by barge and 4-wheel drive vehicles only. We hopped in our souped-up adventure bus, traversing the island along the beach, up the dunes, and through trails cut into the rainforest. The driving itself was half the fun, as I spent more time bouncing out of my seat than actually sitting. Stops during the day included Lake Mckenzie, a crystal clear rainwater lake with healing powers (just ask my skin and hair), an old shipwreck along the beach, a float down a freshwater creek through the forest out onto the beach, colored sand pinnacles, and dingo spotting. Unfortunately, we only saw a dingo silhouette from quite a distance, but I’m not so sure I wanted to get up close and personal with one anyways.

If I could do it again, I’d grab some friends, my truck, and some refreshments, and spend a weekend exploring the trails, stopping for lake swims, and just getting lost in the maze of tracks throughout the island. As it is, I still had an exciting, if not extended, time on the island.

After crossing back over to the mainland around sunset, I hitched a ride down to Brisbane with a previous co-worker who’s lucky enough to be in Australia, yet actually still be employed.

What a novel concept.

The Whitsundays

Sprinkled off the central Queensland coast lies a series of a few dozen islands called the Whitsundays. The Whitsundays are an ideal place for sailing, as they provide many different coves, snorkeling spots, and beaches to explore. I decided to book an overnight sailing trip, as I wanted to take advantage of the chance to sleep out on the water under the stars, but not spend so much time out on the water that I’d permanently become an even darker shade of red than I’ve turned into already. The trip got off to an adventurous start, as we sailed through about 15 minutes of driving rain before we made it far enough offshore for the skies to open up to the shades of crystal blue so predominant in the region.

The two days consisted of exactly what a sailing excursion should entail. Island hopping, snorkeling stops, turtle, dolphin, eagle, and jellyfish spotting, and acoustic karaoke under the canopy of the Milky Way. The crown jewel of the Whitsundays is Whitehaven beach, a blinding white silicon beach with transparent shallow waters as far as the eye can see. I found my zone on a sandbank off shore, as turquoise tides from all directions crashed over me, spread-eagle in my stinger suit.

I haven’t decided what experience was more quintessential, lying down in one of the most beautiful places on earth shrouded in full body jellyfish armor, or singing Land Down Under beneath the nightlight of the Southern Cross. Either way, I’m now convinced I’m getting the full on Aussie experience.

Can’t cha hear, can’t cha hear that thundahh…

Rainforest Beaches

I’ve always seen photos of palm trees, ferns and other rainforest foliage draped out across pristine beaches, and wondered why, of all the beaches I’ve been to, I’d never actually been on a rainforest beach. Well, consider that accomplished. An hour or two north of Cairns lies the Daintree Rainforest, supposedly the oldest rainforest in the world. Hugging the coastline, the Daintree is filled with everything you’d expect in a rainforest: innumerable shades of green, funky trees, rivers, alien looking creatures, and, of course, giant spiders. Oh, and rain. Lots of rain. Thankfully, the rain came and went, and didn’t put too much of a damper on the day. After sampling some exotic ice cream flavors (Black Sapote, and Wattleseed, for those interested), my day of trekking, swimming, crocodile crossings, and spider spotting was complete.

The photo above is from the beach at Cape Tribulation, named by Captain James Cook after his crew’s troubles began in the area. Pristine beach, views, and rainforest, I’d finally found it. What I didn’t expect to find as well was a stern warning to not go near the water, as it was filled with poisonous jellyfish. Box jellyfish, among others.

Australia giveth, and Australia sting-eth away.

The Great Barrier Reef

After getting my fill of urban exploring in Sydney and Melbourne, it was time to experience a bit more of Australia’s natural wonders. First things first, a flight from southeast to northeast. On the final descent into Cairns, that’s Cans for my fellow “r”-pronouncing countrymen, I was reminded of two years prior, flying down into Rio de Janeiro. Rainforest covered mountains running right into a sparkling, jagged coastline. Only this time, instead of murky waters offshore, turquoise hues broken up by long sections of reef filled my view. It was beautiful, and made me all the more excited to not only experience a new environment, but also get up close and personal with something I’ve known about and wrote on bucket lists since I was a child.

I have to say, the Great Barrier Reef lived up to the hype. I’d snorkeled before in Hawaii and off the coast of Catalina Island, so I knew what to expect to some extent, and was cautiously optimistic I’d be blown away, but had not gotten my hopes up too awful much. Jumping off the boat an hour or so offshore from Cairns, the tepid water was filled with light, but there wasn’t much to see. I could tell the water was deep, and I started to regret not taking the Scuba lessons. A few flipper kicks later, I came upon a giant wall of bright colored coral, and as I skimmed over top, I was immersed in a frenzy. Fish of all shapes, sizes, colors, and mannerisms were darting left and right, munching away at the smorgasbord of coral like it was their last meal. In all my previous snorkeling experiences, I’d find a fish I thought was interesting and try to follow it around for a few minutes. None of this was necessary. With every turn of my head, I watched new, bigger, brighter, and goofier fish getting their brunch on. Sensory overload was in full effect. The only time things slowed down was when I found an open spot in the reef, where the sandy surface was somewhat barren 30 feet below. It was then that from the bottom, a majestic sea turtle made a beeline toward me. I watched him gracefully make his way up to the surface, an arm’s length from my face, just to grab a bit of air before returning down into the depths, continuing on his merry way. What a life.

While the fish and Mr. Turtle were the stars of the show, I was enthralled with the coral itself. The colors. The textures. The shapes. I was living a television show, my goggles the camera, my lungs the director. Scenes were cut off only when I was forced to come up for air after diving down into the chaos. There were giant psychedelic clams the size of a small fridge, contracting like a Venus flytrap when anything came in its vicinity. There was brain coral, branch coral, boulder coral, tabletop coral, and they all came in different shapes, sizes, and colors. Bright colors. Fluorescents I thought only existed under a black light.

As we continued out to the second reef of the day, for some reason I thought it’d be a good idea to look for sharks. Round 1 was unsuccessful. I’d more or less given up when I found myself in a similar environment to when I’d met Mr. Turtle. I turned my head in a new direction to catch a glimpse of an ominous, bigger than expected, shark. I can’t lie, I puckered. Why was I looking for this creature, again? After seeing 2 other, far smaller, reef sharks, I learned that I’d seen an aptly named Great Reef Shark. A rare sighting, and not something I ever need to see in that environment again. My stinger suit wasn’t going to do much to stop an oncoming Great Reefy (Australians and their abbreviations). Thankfully, it was gone as quickly as it appeared, off to startle some other snorkeler. While majestic, the Great Reefy was terrifying. For all the beauty contained within the reef, and Australia for that matter, there’s just as much that can poison, sting, or take a chunk out of you. Hopefully I can continue doing my best to avoid getting too up close and personal with the beastly side of Australian beauty.

I think I’ll stick with Mr. Turtle.

A Walk of Art

Walking the lanes and alleys in Melbourne is a sight to behold. Street art is encouraged within the city, so all variations of street art can be found in nearly every alley in most every neighborhood. If you think you’ve seen it all, just come back next week, as the alley will probably have a whole new look by then. The most famous alley in the city is Hosier Lane, where everything from dumpsters to staircases are colorfully annotated with an expression of self, a political message, or a challenge to societal norms.

The Great Ocean Road

Just 2 hours outside of Melbourne lies the aptly named Great Ocean Road, a coastal highway that stretches a couple hundred kilometers through both rugged and pristine coastline. Photo ops are littered throughout the drive, with the main draw being the 12 Apostles, a set of rock formations settled just off the shore. Coastal towns, hidden coves, rainforest, kangaroos, and koalas make the drive anything but mundane. I was in a constant state of anticipation of what was coming up around the next curve.

Adding to the adventure was the act of driving itself. Thankfully, I found a fellow traveler in my hostel that was planning to drive the road as well, so we were able to split costs for the 2-day adventure. Aside from company, I was also provided a navigator. It was good thing, too, as it required all my mental capability to not turn onto the wrong side of the road or go the wrong way through the roundabouts! Surprisingly, it didn’t take long to get used to being on the other side, though I still haven’t quite mastered the art of parking. Activating the turn signals was a challenge on its own, as more often than not I ended up turning on the windshield wipers, instead!

The drive went without a hitch. Two days of stunning coastline views, a little bit of camping, great company, and koala & kangaroo sightings made for a quintessential adventure on the Great Ocean Road.

Melbourne

After an ideal start to the trip in Sydney, the next stop on the adventure was Australia’s other major city, Melbourne. As far as geography goes, I liken Sydney and Melbourne to California’s competing cities, Los Angeles and San Francisco. Like San Francisco, Sydney sits in gorgeous topography, nestled into a harbour and littered with skyline views. Melbourne on the other hand, while near the coast, is relatively flat and dry, save some mountains on the horizon. Flying in, the landscape looked very similar to that of the greater Los Angeles area, albeit not nearly as sprawling. When it comes to the culture of the two cities, however, it’s quite the opposite. While I wouldn’t necessarily equate Sydney to LA, Melbourne screams San Francisco. And Austin. And maybe a little Portland, too. Coming from Sydney, where both the city and the people were always neatly buttoned-up, it was immediately clear that Melbourne was quite the opposite. Any and all styles go. Walking down Bourke street you’ll find performers, homeless, businessmen, exuberant youths, nomads, and hipsters, all hanging out in front of a high end fashion boutique. The mesh of lives, ideals, and styles is woven together seamlessly.

Turn down one of the main streets in the city center, and you’ll more than likely find yourself immersed in a world of street art, as spray paint cans and cigarette butts line the alleyways. Don’t turn around back to the main drag though, else you might miss out on the award-winning speakeasy cocktail bar located at the end of the lane. Endless nondescript cafes, bars, and restaurants are speckled throughout the city. I felt like I needed a treasure map to find all the hidden gems. Though I didn’t have a treasure map, I did have something just as valuable: Local Friends. I wouldn’t have made it to half of the tasty eateries and bars without the help of some former travel friends and coworkers. Thanks Alex and Lee!

About these bars. These aren’t your standard. There’s Berlin Bar, where east literally meets west, with half the bar covered in communist decor, while the other half looks a bit more...western. Or Bar Americano, which requires you walk down an alley within an alley to find a corner cocktail bar that holds all of 10 people at a time. You never know what the seemingly non-descript establishment you’re walking into may have on the other side. Perhaps you’ll get a rooftop view of the skyline, or maybe a DJ spinning records from the cockpit of a 1950’s war plane.

While Sydney was easy on all the senses, Melbourne focuses almost entirely on every aspect of one’s sense of taste.

Food, Drink, Style.

Melbourne.

Escaping the City

While Sydney really is a great city, I tend to relish in my time outside the concrete walls and happenings of city life. Thankfully, with a short 2-hour train ride from the city center, it’s possible to escape into some pretty pristine environments. The Blue Mountains get their namesake from the reaction of chemicals within the Eucalyptus leaves with the air. A blue haze results, which blankets the rolling hills of forests. From photos, I didn’t expect to be too impressed, but it really is striking when you first see it. Perhaps I arrived at the right time, as the late morning haze had yet to lift from the afternoon sun. There’s plenty to do in the relatively large National Park. I chose to escape the throngs of Selfie Sticks and walk a loop trail that brought me to the 3 Sisters, through Rainforest, under and above waterfalls, and apparently through some (very angry) bird habitats. Giant cockatoos and parrots were none too thrilled that I was trespassing along their trail. After a long day of hiking, I enjoyed a meat pie that I’d heard so much about (it did not disappoint) and headed back to Sydney, rejuvenated by my break from the city, and ready to do some urban exploration once more.

As I think about it, aside from the great food, views, and activities the city offers, it’s really the accessibility to nature that has me so keen on Sydney. The city is there for the taking, but a short ferry ride gets you to a serene coastline, or a secluded community, where the hustle and bustle is no more than a backdrop to your day’s activities, or lack thereof. 

Between the Flags

Beach life in Sydney isn’t all that much different from what I’ve been used to the last few years living in Hermosa Beach, California. Juice bars, cafes, and surfboards line the beaches, as the chiseled bodies soak up their tan from the sunshine (hole in the O-zone and all). Getting to and around the beaches, though, is a different story. The first beach I visited was Manly beach (apropos, I know). Rather than take the easy ferry, I instead ventured on the 10km coastal walk from Spit Bridge to Manly. Accompanied by my local guide, Natalie, the walk took us through the outlying communities that dot the hills in Sydney’s outer harbour. Small beaches provide great vantage points to watch the multitudes of sailboats making the most of the sun and wind. The walk passed through all sorts of different environments: beach, rainforest, bush, finally arriving at the community of Manly, a lively promenade leading to soft sand and surf. The 20-minute ferry back to Sydney was just as enjoyable, and a lot less strenuous than the journey out. Getting up close and personal with the Opera House and the Harbour bridge by sea was just the way to cap off a great day.

Bondi Beach, Sydney’s most famous, provided a similar vibe and another great coastal walk. From the edge of the beach, the Bondi to Coogee walk hugs the Cliffside, passing through a handful of beaches along the way. Around every corner were incredible views of the surf pounding against the cliffs, followed by pockets of serenity at the local beaches. After finishing the 2-hour walk, I caught the bus back to Bondi for some proper beach activity, namely laying my towel out and getting sunburned. Throngs of tourists and locals alike find their spot on the sand, taking the necessary swim breaks as the lifeguards direct the crowds to swim between the nomadic flags placed on the shore. I ended my day swimming a couple laps in the famous Icebergs, a seawater lap pool built into the cliff side.

Who says a little exercise shouldn’t come with a view?