Full Circle

In July of 2007, along with 30 or so other students, I took a South American geography test under the dim light of a rainforest lodge somewhere in the Peruvian Amazon. Of all the tests I’ve taken in my life, I remember that one the most vividly, as I treated it as more of a checklist of all the places and landscapes I wanted to see than any sort of exam.

This entire trip has been manifesting itself in my head since the day I took that test. As I sit here on my flight back to California, I’m having a difficult time grasping the idea that I just experienced being present in each and every one of those answers I scribbled down 6 years ago.

I knew back then, and it didn’t require going on this trip for me to realize, but it sure became all the more clear in the last 6 weeks or so, that this world truly is a beautiful place.

Thanks for coming along for the ride once again, see you on the next continent!

La Paz and the Death Road

The bus ride to La Paz from Uyuni was only 12 hours. Piece of cake, I thought. The service even came with dinner and breakfast. Luxury, right?

Nope.

The “road” that connected Uyuni to La Paz was most definitely not a road. I wouldn’t even call it a path. The bus was just traversing the open land, going through rivers, scaling boulders (at least it felt like that) and for some reason going around hairpin turns that couldn’t have been any more stable or smooth than just driving a straight line between the two cities. Apparently I’d been spoiled with my recent South American bus experiences.

Luckily, we made it in one piece. After crashing for a couple hours in my hostel, I set out to explore the city. Settled between mountain ranges at around 12,000 feet altitude, smaller and less developed than the other South American capitals I visited, La Paz holds a certain charm that makes it an enjoyable city to explore. Markets fill the city, ranging from typical farmers’ markets, to juice and food stalls selling 2 course lunches for about $1.25, to the “witches market,” riddled with everything from potion remedies to good-luck llama fetuses to souvenirs. It may be a bit grimy and dangerous, but La Paz doesn’t lack for character.

Feeling pretty content with life’s accomplishments after seeing the salt flats, I was basically playing with house money on my final day in La Paz. So, on the last full day of my trip, I went mountain biking down the World’s Most Dangerous Road, otherwise known as the “Death Road.” Since the skinny, rocky, curvy, uneven, blind-corner filled path wasn’t nerve-wracking enough in itself, the rain on top of the mountain made for a few slippery moments on the way down that needless to say puckered me up a bit. Luckily, some areas were heavily covered in fog, making it difficult to see that the edge I was riding next to was almost 1500 feet down in some areas.

Thankfully I survived the descent, unlike the 20-something bikers that have died in the past, and even have the T-Shirt to prove it!

Salar de Uyuni

When planning this trip, there were 3 things that I based my itinerary around: Iguazu Falls, Patagonia Hiking, and the salt flats of Bolivia. The first two sights lived up to the hype, and I wasn’t expecting the last to be any different.

Leaving from Chile, I set off with a group of 6 in a beat up Land Cruiser for a 3 day adventure through the highlands of Bolivia. The first two days we traveled through desolation. No signs of life for miles aside from the caravan of 4x4s making its way towards Uyuni. The scenery seemed to change every 30 mins, once again overwhelming my senses. Lakes of every different color, desert that seemed to change shades around every corner, wind swept volcanic rock formations, massive peaks, geysers, flamingos, llamas, and gringos made for a tour well worth it even without seeing the flats.

The third day, however, trumped it all. Upon arrival, the flooded flats looked like nothing more than a dirty lake. As we drove in, though, the ground became whiter and whiter as the deep water faded into a thin layer that mirrored the sky above. Standing on the seemingly endless flats with no clear understanding of where exactly the horizon was located was both perplexing and astonishing. We did our best to take some funny photos while still standing in awe of a landscape I honestly could not have imagined existed. While I think I could have just stared into the distance all day, our tour finally came to an end and I was on my way to my last stop: La Paz, Bolivia.

Note: Check the reflection in the group photo, it spells “Uyuni” the town for which the salt flats are named.

Dunes and Wounds in the Desert

Over the course of 4 days, I traveled almost the entire length of Chile by bus. In case your geography is a little rusty, look at a map, it’s a long ways! A 24 hour bus ride (Yes, you read that correctly) from Santiago left me in San Pedro de Atacama, a small town situated in the world’s driest desert.

Adventures abound in San Pedro, and having my time cut short, I set out to accomplish everything I could in 48 hours. I’d like to think I succeeded:

Sandboarding, sunset overlooking the Valley of the Moon (which looked more like Mars), geysers at sunrise, effortlessly floating in salt lagoons, salt flats, and midnight stargazing to top it all off. I woke up both mornings with quite a headache, which I couldn’t figure out if it was due to the altitude, the dry air, the lack of sleep, or the tumble onto my head I took while attempting to bomb down the sand dune.

My second day I spent 20 of 24 hours on one tour/adventure or another. Thankfully I was able to get a solid 4 hours of sleep before getting picked up for my next adventure, into Bolivia for the Salar de Uyuni!

Santiago and Valparaiso, Chile

Having lost a few days waiting for buses and adding a stop or 2 in Patagonia, I finally made my way to a couple Chilean cities. My first stop was Valparaiso, a once important port city now famous for its winding streets, street art, and hippie crowds. Valpo was great for exploring, as every corner I turned revealed a unique painting or alleyway. A jazz concert in the main square capped off a pretty efficient 24 hours in the city.

Next up was a short (a relative term) bus ride to Santiago, the capital of Chile. On my last adventure through Europe, I met a couple friends from Santiago, and was able to meet up with them once I arrived. We had a great dinner catching up and sampling traditional Chilean food and wine (hence the purple teeth and lips in the photo).

In typical coincidental travel fashion, as we walked out of the restaurant, we ran into another friend of mine from Cal Poly who had just started a new job at the restaurant next door. We had planned to meet up the next day, but why wait when you can run into each other at midnight in a city of 6 million people?

A visit to a nearby winery, a walking tour of the city, some great Cal Poly reminiscing and catching up made for a great last day. Epitomized by a nightcap Terremoto (translation: Earthquake), a famous Chilean drink consisting of cheap wine, grenadine, and pineapple ice cream, my time in Santiago was short, but most definitely sweet.

Bariloche, Argentina

My final stop in Patagonia was Bariloche, Argentina.

Having spent the last 2 or 3 weeks in Patagonia, I didn’t anticipate Bariloche looking much different than the rest of what I’d seen. I was wrong, of course. Bariloche reminds me a little bit of South Lake Tahoe, only with a dozen or so lakes instead of one. A ski town during the winter, I took advantage of the semi-good weather and rented a bike to explore the area. Great views, small villages, small bays, and crystal clear lakes made the sometimes grueling 25 mile ride well worth it.

Alas, my time in Patagonia was finally finished. Everything I could have wished to see and experience, it most definitely lived up to any and all expectations.

El Chalten

Apparently a week of trekking wasn’t enough, as once I showered off the layer of filth from Torres del Paine, I was back into Argentina, to visit its trekking capital, El Chalten.

From the sleepy little town of El Chalten it’s possible to do a variety of day hikes, the most famous of which is the 3 hour hike to the base of Mount Fitz Roy, one of the most challenging peaks to climb in the world. While I didn’t quite make it to the summit, the views were still spectacular, and the hikes were manageable now that I was no longer hauling around my pack.

You might recognize the peak and range in the photo, as it’s the logo for the “Patagonia” clothing brand. Unfortunately, I wasn’t sporting any gear from the company, so I missed out on some good product placement!

Next up, a flight to Bariloche, Argentina, for some more Patagonian adventuring!

Torres del Paine

Following my glacier trekking, I crossed the border into Chile to begin a 5 day trek through the Torres del Paine national park in Chilean Patagonia. Finally able to make use of the tent and sleeping bag I’d been hauling around with me for the last month, I set off with enough cans of tuna and beans to last through the winter.

During my 5 days on the trail, I witnessed the gamut of scenery and weather. From massive glaciers to jagged peaks, roaring rivers to crystal clear lakes, drastic valleys to flowered meadows, the park had it all. While I hit some bad weather on the first day, it cleared (by Patagonia standards) for the last few days, making for some pretty stunning vistas that made me forget how much my feet hurt. In total, I walked somewhere close to 50 miles during the trek, thankfully lightening my load each day as I devoured my food supply.

The last morning, I was up at 4am to make the 40 min trek up to the famed Torres for sunrise. While it was a bit chilly on top, seeing the majestic towers appear at first light was well worth it, a perfect end to a quintessential week in Patagonia.

On Thick Ice

After almost a full 24 hours of buses and border crossings from Ushuaia, I arrived in the small town of El Calafate, the home base for travelers looking to catch a glimpse of the Perito Moreno glacier, which, as you can see in the photos, is a sight to behold.

Walkways allow for fairly close views, keeping a safe enough distance to not be struck by the gigantic ice sheets that regularly fall from the face of the glacier. The shear size is difficult to capture, and not just in photographs. Realizing that the ice chunk falling in slow motion down into the water could actually be the size of a car is hard to fathom.

After listening to the glacier creak, crack, and splash for an hour or so, I headed to catch my boat for the real adventure: trekking on the glacier. Equipped with crampons, I explored (with a guide) the top of the glacier, walking along crevasses filled with the bluest water I’d ever seen and staring in awe at the landscape that I was completely engulfed in. The trek ended with a surprise whiskey on ice, freshly hacked off the glacier - my new favorite cocktail. Although I may have trouble ordering glacier whiskey next time I’m at the bar…

The same feelings of being humbled and floored by grandiose surroundings that I felt at Iguazu Falls returned once more at Perito Moreno. Who knew water could be so mesmerizing?

To the End of the Earth

I have to admit, I cheated a little bit. Ushuaia, Argentina, the southernmost city in the world, is the end goal for many adventurersthat drive or ride the length of the Americas down to as far south as roads on this Earth will take you. I caught a 4 hour flight from Buenos Aires instead, but I’ll still claim at least some of the bragging rights of making it to the end of the world!

It was a breath of fresh air, literally, arriving in Ushuaia. Finally able to break out the winter and hiking gear that I’d neglected in my backpack thus far, I spent 3 days getting my training in for my upcoming trek through Torres del Paine. The Tierra del Fuego national park was beautiful, as was my trek up to the Martial glacier above the city. I also got to hang out with some penguins; unfortunately, I think they were just barely too big to fit in my carry-on to take home with me.

What seemed like endless sunlight made for long days of exploring that had me worn out to say the least. There’s a certain mystery about looking out over a mountain range knowing that there’s nothing on the other side, that the only place you may find a trace of civilization past where you’re standing is on the ice fields of Antarctica.

Only one way to go from here! North I go for some Glacier trekking on the Perito Moreno glacier in El Calafate…

ItalSpanglish

After a few days in Brazil, I was feeling pretty good about learning to converse a little bit in another language. With Portuguese being similar to Spanish and Italian, I could pick up on a good portion of what people were trying to say and could kinda sorta get my point across for the simple things.

All confidence was lost, however, when I arrived in Argentina and realized just how rusty my Spanish was. Having done my best to rid my brain of all Spanish and replace it with Italian, I found myself no longer able to move my mouth to say what I wanted to say. It either came out Italian, English, or some strange version of Spanish mixed with the two. I’ve dubbed this new language:

ItalSpanglish

I’ve found that it’s understandable in certain situations, but most definitely not all:

Just walking into a hostel where they only speak Spanish? Nope!

Discussing with a Tango show host, who seems to have memorized a handful of English phrases, where I can and can’t sit and what’s reserved for dinner and for show? Not a chance!

Talking about the beach in California over some Malbec and Steak with a few 20-somethings? Now we’re talking!

And finally, explaining to an Argentinian girl that your new-found hostel friend from Australia really is a phenomenal dancer? Well, I might as well be fluent!

Here’s to the next month of new languages and hopefully fewer snickers and giggles after my conversations!

Buenos Aires

After getting a little taste of the outdoors in Iguazu Falls, I was back to the city life once again in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Known for its world class steaks, sultry tango dancing, and buzzing nightlife, Buenos Aires did not disappoint.

Thanks to some semi-shady, but legitimate, US dollar exchanges, my money went a lot further than I had initially expected. This meant delicious steaks and Malbecs just about every night for a week. I spent my days exploring the various neighborhoods, from colorful “La Boca” to old school “San Telmo” to modern “Palermo.” Nights were spent at dinners until midnight, local pubs, live music discos, dive-bar tangos, and one full-on Tango performance that had my jaw dropping the whole evening. Throw in a couple days at the park, a stroll through the elaborate Recoleta cemetery, and more than a few espressos at the endless amount of cafés in the city, and I’d say I experienced Buenos Aires to its fullest.

One experience that sticks out was once again an evening with some locals. Through friends of friends of a friend I met in my hostel (still following?), I went to eat at a local steakhouse. Our crew consisted of 3 local porteños, 3 Spanish visitors in town on holidays, and 2 Americans. My broken Spanish got me through a great dinner with lively company, before we headed off to a dimly lit dive bar for some after dinner drinks, where my Spanish got significantly better, at least I think it did. We were treated to multiple traditional musical performances from our tables a few feet in front of the tiny stage. No microphones, just a couple guitars and powerful voices. The crowd sang along while I pretended to know the words as well.

No one could tell the difference, nor did they care, as even the gringos were Porteños that evening.

Iguazu Falls

After squeezing in one last fresh coconut in Rio, the next stop on the adventure was Iguazu Falls, one of the largest waterfalls in the world. Splitting Brazil and Argentina, Iguazu Falls can be accessed from both countries, with awe-inspiring and unique views from each.

Down to one Australian travel partner, we got settled on the Argentinian side and headed to the falls, not entirely sure what to expect. After walking along makeshift river platforms for a mile or so, we arrived to the top of the falls. Perched right over the largest section of the 3 km waterfall, a small railing was all that stood between us and the “Devil’s Throat” portion of the falls. The deafening roar of the water was mesmerizing, as looking down into the abyss brought on a slight feeling of vertigo. Standing right on top of an unstoppable force of nature was an unforgettable experience.

We weren’t done, however. Argentina has built a set of pathways that bring you on top, inside, and below many of the falls. We spent the day exploring and capturing jaw dropping view after another. We even took a boat ride/shower up underneath the second largest portion of the falls, it’s just too bad we didn’t get the memo to wear a swimsuit! Having already been soaked, we headed off the main falls to a trail through the jungle that ended at a relatively minuscule falls with a pool below. After taking a dip, we of course got stuck in a torrential downpour, which turned into basically a monsoon by the time we finished the hour long trek back to the park entrance. From the Devil’s Throat, to the boat trip under the falls, to the monsoon, we had conquered Iguazu falls. Throw in almost getting run over by a slow moving train, and we had quite the day!

As if day 1 wasn’t enough it was time to head over to the Brazilian side for the grand overview of the falls. Armed with rain jackets, we took in the panoramas we had been smack dab in the middle of the day before. The Brazilian side did not disappoint, providing not only the panoramic views but also platforms that put us right in the path of a portion of the mighty falls. Standing on the ledge looking down on the rainbow filled river below while being drenched by the nonstop onslaught of water was an experience that will stick with me for the rest of my days.

Refreshed. Amazed. Humbled.

What an experience.

The Carioca Life

After New Year’s celebrations and touristy sightseeing, it was time to live like a Brazilian. Rio natives, or Cariocas, have things pretty much figured out. Fresh açai smoothies for breakfast, lounging on the beach after a run, having a swim once it gets too warm, enjoying the impressive views in the background, and right in front of you as well. And to your right. And to your left. And behind you. Cariocas are anything but bashful when it comes to their bathing attire, and they definitely have no reason to be. Well…most of them at least!

Nights are filled with hearty meals, live music and Samba dancing that will make gringos like myself feel like I have 2 left feet. There is a constant sense of enjoyment and passion for life around Rio, no matter what neighborhood you explore. It’s enticing and overwhelming at the same time, and I dig it.

I was fortunate enough to have the chance to hang out with a good number of Cariocas during my time in Rio, with one group trip to a more private beach just outside the city. Besides having my fresh sunburn turn from pink to lobster red, the tropical beach setting with the locals made me feel like I’d had a true Carioca experience… Belesa!

Bem Vindo a Rio

As my plane circled the lush, green landscape during its descent into Rio de Janeiro, with lakes, mountains, and beaches surrounding a dense spattering of houses, I couldn’t help but get a little excited to touch down into a place unlike any I’d visited before. Rio said hello by greeting me with 100 degree weather and enough humidity to make a camel sweat. Having flown in from Dallas, where temperatures approached freezing, I immediately began sweating, and didn’t really stop until I left the city!

I had a day to kill before meeting up with a couple friends from Australia, so I spent my time exploring the hipster neighborhood I was staying in, doing my best to learn some rudimentary Portuguese and sample some Brazilian fare. Luckily I made it back to my hostel before the thunderstorm hit, and was able to enjoy the view over the city as the storm rolled through. I made my way to the beach and enjoyed a fresh coconut and the spectacular backdrop as the locals stared at the white guy on their beach.

Once my friends arrived on New Year’s Eve, we were off to a Brazilian house party followed by a trek with the masses down to Copacabana beach for a fireworks show that stretched the length of the seemingly endless beach. Concerts along the sand kept the celebration going into the morning for the millions of people there, dressed in their good luck white outfits. After a swim, we called it a night, a successful beginning to the new year.

We then hit the Rio tourist circuit making our way to the Cristo Redentor statue above the city, and Sugar Loaf Mountain for the sunset. Rio and its residents are picturesque from any angle and you’d have a difficult time not leaving impressed by all there is to see and experience here.

Here I Go Again

Aside from the Italian wedding last summer, my days over the past year and a half have gone more or less something like this:

1) Wake up
2) Go to work for 8-12 hours
3) Come home, watch a lecture, study, or do homework until I’m either too tired or can’t concentrate any longer
4) Rinse and Repeat

Any extras on the side like coaching little kids basketball or weekend trips away always carried with it the unfortunate consequence of having to squeeze my schedule even more than it already was to begin with.

So, as I sit here on my 11 hour flight to South America, my home for the next 6 weeks, l look at my nonexistent agenda and breath a sigh of relief. That light at the end of the tunnel that seemed so painstakingly long a year ago has finally been reached…and it feels good!

This adventure will bring me to Rio De Janeiro to celebrate New Year’s Eve, Buenos Aires for some Tango dancing, down to the southern tip of the world, up through Patagonia for some much needed quality time with the outdoors, and finally through the Salt Flats of Bolivia before heading home.

I’ll do my best to bring you all along for the ride with me through my photos and reflections. And just in case I irritate that travel itch you’ve been ignoring, I still need a hiking partner for Patagonia!

Ready?