Italy 1

Vespas, Wine Tasting, and Tuscan Sun

I think I can go home satisfied now. Aside from starting a gelato shop in Italy, my other main goal was to ride around on a Vespa. Well Christmas came early this year because I realized that goal before I had anticipated. When my Siena roommates mentioned they wanted to rent scooters and head south to some other hill towns and wineries, I wasn’t about to pass up the opportunity to realize my dream!

Getting to Montalcino from Siena was going to be about an hour drive, er, scoot. I’m not gonna lie, I was a little nervous about manuevering through Italian traffic on a little scooter, especially after seeing that we would have to travel on somewhat main roads. Nevertheless, nothing was going to stop us, and we headed off. Once we were comfortable with the bikes, the ride was great, and after we climbed the hill to Montalcino, it felt nice to enjoy the sun, as the morning air made the ride a little chilly. From there, we headed outside the city to the St. Antimo monastery, where the monks chant daily. Hearing the Gregorian chanting was incredible. I could see how a life of contemplation could easily be the norm in this area; not a sound to be heard, save the rustling of olive tree branches and grapevines.

We then traveled to a few different wineries, tasting the famous Brunello di Montalcino wine, winding through dirt roads, rolling hills, and grapevines. The views from the wineries were the kind that make you not want to move, let alone leave. One winery had Mozart playing, which we thought was to set the mood, which it did very well. Apparently, though, they are actually playing the music for the grapes. Whatever the strategy, they’re doing something right around here because the wine isn’t too shabby.

The journey back to Siena across the hills of fields and grapevines was about as cliche as it gets. With the sun setting on my left, and my shadow desperately trying to keep up in the field on my right, I had not a worry in the world.

It was the perfect farewell to Tuscany, I hope too see it again soon…

Chianti Country

Jodi, Karen, and I figured that since we were so close, it was probably a good idea to head up to the northern part of Tuscany to sample some of the famous Chianti wine. After booking the tour bus, I can’t say I was surprised to see that I was a good 30 years younger than about 90% of the clientele. I guess that’s what happens when you travel in October! The wine most definitely did not disappoint, and now I’ll be lugging around a nice heavy bottle of Chianti Classico for the next couple months.

The tour also took us to San Gimignano, an Italian hill town famous for its many towers scattered throughout the hilltop. The town itself is mostly touristy, but it’s not hard to see why. A town filled with iconic towers overlooking some of the most famous wine country in the world makes for a pretty good vacation destination. You can’t help but sit down and enjoy watching the world pass by while your own world stands still. It’s encouraging to know that all the sights that you need to see in a place like this can be seen in one location: the chair, or step, that you’re sitting on, wherever that may be. My spot was on the edge of the city wall, looking out over the country side with a glass of Chianti and a gelato.

It is a Dolce Vita indeed.

Siena, Italy

After leaving Assisi, I took the longest way possible to get to Siena. I detoured up to Bologna, through Florence, to meet a family member who was nice enough to deliver a package to me that arrived at their house in Vasto about a month after my Mom sent it (gotta love the Italian postal service). I then headed down to Siena, through Florence again for the 3rd time in 3 days, arriving just after the last bit of light from the sun disappeared. Luckily I met some Germans who were studying abroad in Siena, who were nice enough to show me the buses I needed to get to the main square.

Once I arrived in the center of town, there was one thing I was still missing: a bed for the night. Me being me, I assumed things would fall together at the last minute, which they somehow did. During my one night stay in Florence, I befriended two girls in my hostel that were planning on going to Siena next. Since there weren’t really any good hostels in Siena, I suggested that we split a hotel room to save on money. Due to the consistent lack of internet connection in Italy, I was only able to send an email to them that morning from Assisi, suggesting some hotels/guesthouses from my trusty guidebook, completely expecting to be finding my own place for the night seeing as how I didn’t know when I would have access to internet again. So, as I arrived in Siena, I walked around aimlessly looking for internet before stopping at the only affordable hotel in my book, which was of course full. At this point, I started to think that my luck actually ran out, and that I would be spending the night in Siena broke and with no friends. Until…I found a rogue WiFi connection that actually worked, right in the middle of the street (no cars, don’t worry). An email popped up from my new friends saying they had a room right off the main square and that the owner was waiting for me to show up. HottDog! That worked out pretty well.

Siena sits on the rolling hills of Tuscany, with narrow, traffic free streets that all seem to lead to the main square, Il Campo, shown in the photo. The square is huge, and is buzzing throughout the day and night with people having a drink, laying in the sun, eating their pizza, and enjoying their gelatos. The town itself, in my opinion, epitomizes Italy. Big piazza, narrow streets, beautiful cathedral, window shoppers in full force, gelato at every corner, scooters weaving through pedestrians, fresh made pasta at mom and pop restaurants, and grapevines stretching across fields as far as the eye can see.

Somehow, someway, it just keeps getting better…

Assisi, Italy

After leaving Padua, I spent the next couple days exploring some lesser known towns in Italy. While uneventful, it was nice to get off the beaten path of the typical Italian tourist and not hear any English for a while.

Assisi is perched on top of a hill overlooking a valley filled with olive trees and grapevines. The town itself contains narrow, windy streets that make getting lost a kind of sport. While there are a fair share of St. Francis souvenir shops and loads of tourists, there’s a certain charm about the town that makes it one of my favorite places.

Before heading up the hill from the train station below, I visited a church built over St. Francis’ original home chapel after he started his order. The original little chapel sits directly in the middle of the huge church. On my way there I encountered my first bit of animosity from the Italian people: an older lady mumbled to herself, “Americano…brutto,” (ugly American) as I declined her request for me to buy one of her bookmarks she was waving in my face. I don’t think she expected me to understand what she said because as I turned around and asked her why, she got a bit flustered!

Making my way up the hill, I checked into my lodging for the night: a room in a little complex owned by the most enthusiastic Italian woman I’ve met so far. She didn’t speak a word of English, but she sure was happy to see me, I could tell that much. As she showed me my room, everything she described sounded like God’s gift to this Earth. Even asking for my passport sounded like a joyous celebration. The room turned out to be great, and, somehow, the cheapest room in town offered a view of the valley below.

As I walked through Assisi following the footsteps of the life of St. Francis, I realized my trip has turned into more of a pilgrimage since I’ve arrived in Italy. The day’s sights are more often than not centered around churches and the saints that lived in each town. It’s an aspect of Italy that I don’t think I thought about as much when I envisioned my trip, but it’s something that I’m very thankful to be able to experience. The high point of Assisi is the Basilica of St. Francis, a beautiful, two part basilica covered with frescoes from the life of the saint. While the basilica is what draws pilgrims and tourists alike, I think the town of Assisi itself is more indicative of the humble, simplistic attitude that Francis had, a place where beauty can be found in the most basic elements of the town’s character.

Padua, Italy

Heading east from Verona, my next stop was Padua, a youthful university city with some big highlights. The city itself is buzzing, with bicycles everywhere and students from all over the world attending the university right in the middle of town. Big farmer’s markets occur daily in the two main piazzas right next to each other, while a covered market divides the two, selling everything from fresh cheese to homemade pasta to pig legs. Not a bad menu for a college student. The markets clear in the evening and the younger crowd fills the piazzas, sipping their aperitivi and grabbing a bite to eat. It’s a great scene, and reminded me of being back in San Luis Obispo, only it was completely different…You can’t really sit in a giant, centuries old square in SLO, and, I hate to say it, but the gelato tastes a little better than Bali’s yogurt!

Aside from being a buzzing university town, Padua has a storied history. Saint Anthony’s settling point, Padua is home to the basilica constructed in his honor. Pilgrims from all over the world come to see his tomb and relics contained within the basilica, which is a spectacular sight. People often say that once you have seen a few European churches, you’ve seen them all. Wrong. Saint Anthony’s is special place, and I was lucky enough to attend a couple masses there while I was in town, adding to the experience.

I enjoyed every bit of Padova (the real way to say it) and wouldn’t be surprised if I make my way back there in the near future...

Verona, Italy

2 days in the home of Romeo and Juliet was more than enough time to realize how romantic a city Verona really is. Narrow streets lined with colorful buildings that have vines overflowing from their balconies, Vespas weaving in and out of cars and people, animated conversations with one hand waving frantically while the other holds the precious gelato, church bells ringing, and the smell of pizza in the oven…this is the scene at Piazza Erbe, the more “local” of the two main squares. I’ve definitely arrived in Italy.

Tourist season must be winding down, as even the camera wielding people I pass by are speaking Italian. While I’m not quite immersed completely, I’m getting there, and hopefully, as time goes on, I’ll start to understand more and more of what the gelato waving Italians are saying to their friends…

The Dolomites

After leaving Munich, I headed down to Italy, my home for the next two and a half months. My first stop was in the Dolomites, a region filled with steep, jagged mountains and a culture more German than Italian. It was strange hearing a mix of Italian and German while sitting at a cafe that served both pasta and schnitzel. The break in the mountains was exactly what I needed, though, as I didn’t feel like I was missing out on a ton of sights while I relaxed and enjoyed the views of green rolling hills and the unique peaks of the Dolomites.

The photo shown is from a small village called Castelrotto, known for its belltower and ideal location at the base of the Dolomites. After staying a couple nights, I was off on my grand tour of the Italy everybody knows.

First stop: Verona

Tragedy

As the 10th anniversary of September 11th is upon us, we are reminded of the tragedy that impacted the lives of so many people on that fateful day. Whether directly or indirectly affected by the attacks, we as Americans feel the pain and sorrow for the tragedy experienced by so many people and our nation as a whole.

Sometimes tragedy occurs on a smaller scale, but has the same effect.

Two members of the family here in Vasto were taken away too soon. In 2004, at 44, Marta’s father was taken after suffering from cancer. That same year, Maria and Cesario’s youngest son, Cristian, was tragically killed in a car accident at just 30 years old. Cesario has never been the same. Though he is physically gone, it is clear that he lives on. His photos, awards, and diplomas fill the walls of the house. Cristian was an adventure seeker, a traveller, a soldier, a son, a brother, and an uncle. The outpouring of love that comes from the family’s memories of him makes it clear just how wonderful of a person he was.

My visit to the cemetery was a somber, yet worthwhile experience. As I prayed for the souls of the two men lost that tragic year, as well as for the rest of the family there, I knew that those left behind would never get over what happened. What I also realized was that there is no need to. The effect of the tragedies shows just how beautiful each person was, and the grief shared by everyone is a true testament to their importance to the family, both before and after death.

Tragedies come in all shapes and sizes. What must remain constant is the respite from our troubles: Faith in God and the Hope for a future with Him.

May perpetual light shine upon the souls lost those 10 short years ago, and on Livio and Cristian as well.

La Notte di Pizza

Since I’ve been in Vasto, I think, scratch that, I know, that I’ve put on a few pounds thanks to the delicious meals I have been treated to at everyone’s houses. A few nights ago, Loredana had the family over for pizza and fried fish. More types of pizza than I can count continuously filled the table as everyone had their fill and then some. Mangia, Mangia!

Loredana and her family own a tabacchia right next door to their house, and her husband, Pietro has a collection of vintage scooters and cars in the basement “museum.” They have two children, Nico and Luca. Luca is 14 and is an all-star soccer (calcio) player. Nico is my age and is a big poker player. I was going to join him in a tournament at a poker club, but the entry fee was a little steep for my rusty poker skills and broken Italian. I really enjoyed being around Loredana and her family, she reminded me continuously of my Auntie Jo back home in California.

I guess love and hospitality runs in the family…

Big Joe

Maria’s brother Guiseppe, or Big Joe as he calls himself, happened to be in Vasto for the first time in 10 years. He works as a chef in an Italian restaurant in Germany. Big Joe is quite a character. He knows some English and really enjoyed testing it out with me:

Hello!

I’m Big Joe!

How are you??!!

…and no, I’m not exaggerating with the exclamation points. Marta calls Guiseppe the Kung-Foo Panda, and I think the description fits him well. Big Joe always has a joke and a laugh, and I’m glad I was lucky enough to meet him before he headed back to Germany. They may not look alike, but the siblings you see in the photo share the same zest for life that is truly enjoyable to be around…

Ci vediamo a dopo Big Joe!

Panzerotti

So I am now officially an Italian chef. Marta, Antonio, and I spent the day making panzerotti, which is basically tomatoes, mozzarella, and basil wrapped up in dough and fried in oil. Everything was fresh, as always. The basil came from the plant on the deck and the pomodoro (tomato sauce) came from my great Aunt Maria’s secret stash. In every house, the garage has a shelf that contains bottle after bottle of last season’s tomatoes that have been boiled and then packed into the perfect serving size. No salt, no chemicals. I like to call it the Italian preservative: tomatoes, boiling water, and a little bit of love.

My job was to stuff and seal the panzerotti after Antonio rolled the dough. When all was said and done, we had made enough for about 10 people, but the three of us sure did a number on the batch.

All in all, I was very satisfied with my first Italian kitchen experience, although I should probably leave it up to the professionals…

Famiglia

Two months on the rails away from home has gotten to be a little bit wearing, so meeting up with some family was exactly what the doctor ordered! Here in Vasto, Italy, everything is about the family. I felt welcome the moment I arrived and I’ve had a great time meeting everyone and enjoying the warm weather at the beach. The photo was taken at the end of our 3 hour lunch that consisted of meats, cheeses, salads, lasagna, pork loin, fruits, pastries, vino, and of course caffe…buon apetito! Only about half of the family I’ve met are shown here, with the others living close by, if not in the same complex. I’ve learned a lot about where I come from and just how important family really is. My Italian is coming along slowly, but surely, and I’m getting used to the daily espresso shots.

I also was introduced to the best creation known to man: the Nutella pizza. Freshly baked salty pizza crust on top and bottom, nutella inside (a lot), and powdered sugar on the outside. Could it get much better? I think not.

My cousin Marta has been my guide and translator here, I don’t know what I would do without her! She has introduced me (piacere!) to everyone, shown me around, and taught me about the history of the Salvatorelli’s, my Nonnie’s family. Life has slowed down a little bit, and that’s just fine…Sto bene

More photos and updates to come…Ciao