Byron to Brisbane

After storming my way down the East Coast, it was time to hit the brakes a bit to recharge. Of all places to accomplish such a mission, I think Byron Bay is most likely near the top of that list. A justifiably famous surf town, Byron is filled with surfboards, shops, free spirits, and perhaps a few lost souls. The thing that’s clearly non-existent is stress. When the front page of the local newspaper has a headline story reminding the town that they better get used to the recent easterly swells in the surf, you sort of get the feeling priorities may be a little different in these parts.

Unfortunately, the timing for my visit wasn’t the best, as I endured a few days of (mostly) on and off rain storms that kept me indoors more than I’d hoped. As it was, I still found enough clear skies to play some beach volleyball, get tossed around in the surf, and lay claim to my section of the beach. Even through the rain, it was easy to see why so many residents had chosen Byron as the place to make the switch from traveler to transplant.

Following my time in Byron, I made the short journey to the last stop on my Australia itinerary: Brisbane. The third of Australia’s major cities, Brisbane is doing its best to catch up to the beauty and culture that is Sydney and Melbourne.  My draw to Brisbane, though, was not to experience an up and coming Australian city, but to catch up with some great mates I’d met during my previous travels in South America, where friendly exchange rates translated to daily steaks and free-flowing Malbec.

There’s something unique about the friendships you make while travelling. Spending no more than a Monday and Tuesday with a fellow traveler in some random country can build bonds that last longer and be stronger than those with the people you may see on a daily basis. I believe this stems from the vulnerability revealed when one finds themselves in an unfamiliar place, with unfamiliar people. Guards are dropped, perspectives are adopted, and something wonderful happens: humanity remains. No judgments, no reservations, no preconceived opinions. Humanity in its rawest form produces the best of comraderie, independent of the time dimension. I’ve met many fellow travelers that I would gladly open up my home to at the drop of a hat, and have been lucky enough to receive the same treatment from great friends during travels of my own.

Aside from an addition to the family (and 2 more on the way!), it was as if two years ago was yesterday. We spent 2 days reminiscing and trying to recall South America, and the group ensured I was given the local treatment. Frequent visits to the local pubs, a lesson in Rugby, a Wheat-Bix challenge, the TimTam slam, some kangaroo barbecue, and even a little bit of golf made for a great few days in the city.  I only hope I can return the favor once I convince the crew to visit in California.

Thanks Al, Tim, and Lena!  

…I did manage to get at least one touristy thing into my Brisbane itinerary, as I wasn’t going to leave Australia without hanging out with some Koalas and Kangaroos!

Fraser Island

After getting back to shore from the Whitsundays, I had a couple hours to kill before moving on. So, in true backpacker fashion, I cleaned up in the outdoor showers at the town lagoon, grabbed some dinner at the grocery store, and waited for my 18-hour bus. The time surprisingly passed fairly quickly, even with the lack of sleep, and after passing at least a million gum trees, I arrived in Rainbow Beach, the jump off point for visiting Fraser Island.

Fraser island is the largest sand island in the world, covered in an array of different landscapes, ranging from dunes to rainforest. The island is accessible by barge and 4-wheel drive vehicles only. We hopped in our souped-up adventure bus, traversing the island along the beach, up the dunes, and through trails cut into the rainforest. The driving itself was half the fun, as I spent more time bouncing out of my seat than actually sitting. Stops during the day included Lake Mckenzie, a crystal clear rainwater lake with healing powers (just ask my skin and hair), an old shipwreck along the beach, a float down a freshwater creek through the forest out onto the beach, colored sand pinnacles, and dingo spotting. Unfortunately, we only saw a dingo silhouette from quite a distance, but I’m not so sure I wanted to get up close and personal with one anyways.

If I could do it again, I’d grab some friends, my truck, and some refreshments, and spend a weekend exploring the trails, stopping for lake swims, and just getting lost in the maze of tracks throughout the island. As it is, I still had an exciting, if not extended, time on the island.

After crossing back over to the mainland around sunset, I hitched a ride down to Brisbane with a previous co-worker who’s lucky enough to be in Australia, yet actually still be employed.

What a novel concept.

The Whitsundays

Sprinkled off the central Queensland coast lies a series of a few dozen islands called the Whitsundays. The Whitsundays are an ideal place for sailing, as they provide many different coves, snorkeling spots, and beaches to explore. I decided to book an overnight sailing trip, as I wanted to take advantage of the chance to sleep out on the water under the stars, but not spend so much time out on the water that I’d permanently become an even darker shade of red than I’ve turned into already. The trip got off to an adventurous start, as we sailed through about 15 minutes of driving rain before we made it far enough offshore for the skies to open up to the shades of crystal blue so predominant in the region.

The two days consisted of exactly what a sailing excursion should entail. Island hopping, snorkeling stops, turtle, dolphin, eagle, and jellyfish spotting, and acoustic karaoke under the canopy of the Milky Way. The crown jewel of the Whitsundays is Whitehaven beach, a blinding white silicon beach with transparent shallow waters as far as the eye can see. I found my zone on a sandbank off shore, as turquoise tides from all directions crashed over me, spread-eagle in my stinger suit.

I haven’t decided what experience was more quintessential, lying down in one of the most beautiful places on earth shrouded in full body jellyfish armor, or singing Land Down Under beneath the nightlight of the Southern Cross. Either way, I’m now convinced I’m getting the full on Aussie experience.

Can’t cha hear, can’t cha hear that thundahh…

Rainforest Beaches

I’ve always seen photos of palm trees, ferns and other rainforest foliage draped out across pristine beaches, and wondered why, of all the beaches I’ve been to, I’d never actually been on a rainforest beach. Well, consider that accomplished. An hour or two north of Cairns lies the Daintree Rainforest, supposedly the oldest rainforest in the world. Hugging the coastline, the Daintree is filled with everything you’d expect in a rainforest: innumerable shades of green, funky trees, rivers, alien looking creatures, and, of course, giant spiders. Oh, and rain. Lots of rain. Thankfully, the rain came and went, and didn’t put too much of a damper on the day. After sampling some exotic ice cream flavors (Black Sapote, and Wattleseed, for those interested), my day of trekking, swimming, crocodile crossings, and spider spotting was complete.

The photo above is from the beach at Cape Tribulation, named by Captain James Cook after his crew’s troubles began in the area. Pristine beach, views, and rainforest, I’d finally found it. What I didn’t expect to find as well was a stern warning to not go near the water, as it was filled with poisonous jellyfish. Box jellyfish, among others.

Australia giveth, and Australia sting-eth away.

The Great Barrier Reef

After getting my fill of urban exploring in Sydney and Melbourne, it was time to experience a bit more of Australia’s natural wonders. First things first, a flight from southeast to northeast. On the final descent into Cairns, that’s Cans for my fellow “r”-pronouncing countrymen, I was reminded of two years prior, flying down into Rio de Janeiro. Rainforest covered mountains running right into a sparkling, jagged coastline. Only this time, instead of murky waters offshore, turquoise hues broken up by long sections of reef filled my view. It was beautiful, and made me all the more excited to not only experience a new environment, but also get up close and personal with something I’ve known about and wrote on bucket lists since I was a child.

I have to say, the Great Barrier Reef lived up to the hype. I’d snorkeled before in Hawaii and off the coast of Catalina Island, so I knew what to expect to some extent, and was cautiously optimistic I’d be blown away, but had not gotten my hopes up too awful much. Jumping off the boat an hour or so offshore from Cairns, the tepid water was filled with light, but there wasn’t much to see. I could tell the water was deep, and I started to regret not taking the Scuba lessons. A few flipper kicks later, I came upon a giant wall of bright colored coral, and as I skimmed over top, I was immersed in a frenzy. Fish of all shapes, sizes, colors, and mannerisms were darting left and right, munching away at the smorgasbord of coral like it was their last meal. In all my previous snorkeling experiences, I’d find a fish I thought was interesting and try to follow it around for a few minutes. None of this was necessary. With every turn of my head, I watched new, bigger, brighter, and goofier fish getting their brunch on. Sensory overload was in full effect. The only time things slowed down was when I found an open spot in the reef, where the sandy surface was somewhat barren 30 feet below. It was then that from the bottom, a majestic sea turtle made a beeline toward me. I watched him gracefully make his way up to the surface, an arm’s length from my face, just to grab a bit of air before returning down into the depths, continuing on his merry way. What a life.

While the fish and Mr. Turtle were the stars of the show, I was enthralled with the coral itself. The colors. The textures. The shapes. I was living a television show, my goggles the camera, my lungs the director. Scenes were cut off only when I was forced to come up for air after diving down into the chaos. There were giant psychedelic clams the size of a small fridge, contracting like a Venus flytrap when anything came in its vicinity. There was brain coral, branch coral, boulder coral, tabletop coral, and they all came in different shapes, sizes, and colors. Bright colors. Fluorescents I thought only existed under a black light.

As we continued out to the second reef of the day, for some reason I thought it’d be a good idea to look for sharks. Round 1 was unsuccessful. I’d more or less given up when I found myself in a similar environment to when I’d met Mr. Turtle. I turned my head in a new direction to catch a glimpse of an ominous, bigger than expected, shark. I can’t lie, I puckered. Why was I looking for this creature, again? After seeing 2 other, far smaller, reef sharks, I learned that I’d seen an aptly named Great Reef Shark. A rare sighting, and not something I ever need to see in that environment again. My stinger suit wasn’t going to do much to stop an oncoming Great Reefy (Australians and their abbreviations). Thankfully, it was gone as quickly as it appeared, off to startle some other snorkeler. While majestic, the Great Reefy was terrifying. For all the beauty contained within the reef, and Australia for that matter, there’s just as much that can poison, sting, or take a chunk out of you. Hopefully I can continue doing my best to avoid getting too up close and personal with the beastly side of Australian beauty.

I think I’ll stick with Mr. Turtle.