Australia

The Top End

Before making my way into Asia, I had some unfinished business to take care of in Australia, namely, getting a proper Outback experience in contrast to the city and beach locales I’d relegated my first stint to. Darwin sits at the very northern tip of Australia, referred to as The Top End. Aside from being a military hub, Darwin serves as the gateway to Kakadu and Litchfield National Parks, home to Aboriginal cultures, an array of bird, plant, and creature life, 15-foot tall termite mounds, waterfalls, and the iconic red dirt I always imagined Australia being filled with.

Due to the wet season not quite being completely finished, and a lack of my own means of transportation, I ended up taking a couple overpriced day trips into the two parks. Rock and cave paintings hundreds of years old amidst a landscape that made me feel as though I was on the set of The Lion King served as just the contrast to my previous Australian experience I was looking for. Throw in some spear throwing, more giant spiders, salt water crocodiles, and some citrus ant-licking (I promise it’s a thing), and I’d say the trip was a success.

In Litchfield, the scorching heat was no match for the waterfalls and rivers that served as perfect swimming respites, well-earned refreshment if you ask me. I did leave semi-disappointed in myself, though, as I did not join in the small crowd of locals jumping off the cliff-sides surrounding the waterfall. One too many stories of tourists being air-lifted out allowed common sense to prevail, a trend I’m nervously noticing occur more and more often with my internal dialogues.

Perhaps I am finally getting too old for this Sh*t.

Nah.

Byron to Brisbane

After storming my way down the East Coast, it was time to hit the brakes a bit to recharge. Of all places to accomplish such a mission, I think Byron Bay is most likely near the top of that list. A justifiably famous surf town, Byron is filled with surfboards, shops, free spirits, and perhaps a few lost souls. The thing that’s clearly non-existent is stress. When the front page of the local newspaper has a headline story reminding the town that they better get used to the recent easterly swells in the surf, you sort of get the feeling priorities may be a little different in these parts.

Unfortunately, the timing for my visit wasn’t the best, as I endured a few days of (mostly) on and off rain storms that kept me indoors more than I’d hoped. As it was, I still found enough clear skies to play some beach volleyball, get tossed around in the surf, and lay claim to my section of the beach. Even through the rain, it was easy to see why so many residents had chosen Byron as the place to make the switch from traveler to transplant.

Following my time in Byron, I made the short journey to the last stop on my Australia itinerary: Brisbane. The third of Australia’s major cities, Brisbane is doing its best to catch up to the beauty and culture that is Sydney and Melbourne.  My draw to Brisbane, though, was not to experience an up and coming Australian city, but to catch up with some great mates I’d met during my previous travels in South America, where friendly exchange rates translated to daily steaks and free-flowing Malbec.

There’s something unique about the friendships you make while travelling. Spending no more than a Monday and Tuesday with a fellow traveler in some random country can build bonds that last longer and be stronger than those with the people you may see on a daily basis. I believe this stems from the vulnerability revealed when one finds themselves in an unfamiliar place, with unfamiliar people. Guards are dropped, perspectives are adopted, and something wonderful happens: humanity remains. No judgments, no reservations, no preconceived opinions. Humanity in its rawest form produces the best of comraderie, independent of the time dimension. I’ve met many fellow travelers that I would gladly open up my home to at the drop of a hat, and have been lucky enough to receive the same treatment from great friends during travels of my own.

Aside from an addition to the family (and 2 more on the way!), it was as if two years ago was yesterday. We spent 2 days reminiscing and trying to recall South America, and the group ensured I was given the local treatment. Frequent visits to the local pubs, a lesson in Rugby, a Wheat-Bix challenge, the TimTam slam, some kangaroo barbecue, and even a little bit of golf made for a great few days in the city.  I only hope I can return the favor once I convince the crew to visit in California.

Thanks Al, Tim, and Lena!  

…I did manage to get at least one touristy thing into my Brisbane itinerary, as I wasn’t going to leave Australia without hanging out with some Koalas and Kangaroos!

Fraser Island

After getting back to shore from the Whitsundays, I had a couple hours to kill before moving on. So, in true backpacker fashion, I cleaned up in the outdoor showers at the town lagoon, grabbed some dinner at the grocery store, and waited for my 18-hour bus. The time surprisingly passed fairly quickly, even with the lack of sleep, and after passing at least a million gum trees, I arrived in Rainbow Beach, the jump off point for visiting Fraser Island.

Fraser island is the largest sand island in the world, covered in an array of different landscapes, ranging from dunes to rainforest. The island is accessible by barge and 4-wheel drive vehicles only. We hopped in our souped-up adventure bus, traversing the island along the beach, up the dunes, and through trails cut into the rainforest. The driving itself was half the fun, as I spent more time bouncing out of my seat than actually sitting. Stops during the day included Lake Mckenzie, a crystal clear rainwater lake with healing powers (just ask my skin and hair), an old shipwreck along the beach, a float down a freshwater creek through the forest out onto the beach, colored sand pinnacles, and dingo spotting. Unfortunately, we only saw a dingo silhouette from quite a distance, but I’m not so sure I wanted to get up close and personal with one anyways.

If I could do it again, I’d grab some friends, my truck, and some refreshments, and spend a weekend exploring the trails, stopping for lake swims, and just getting lost in the maze of tracks throughout the island. As it is, I still had an exciting, if not extended, time on the island.

After crossing back over to the mainland around sunset, I hitched a ride down to Brisbane with a previous co-worker who’s lucky enough to be in Australia, yet actually still be employed.

What a novel concept.

The Whitsundays

Sprinkled off the central Queensland coast lies a series of a few dozen islands called the Whitsundays. The Whitsundays are an ideal place for sailing, as they provide many different coves, snorkeling spots, and beaches to explore. I decided to book an overnight sailing trip, as I wanted to take advantage of the chance to sleep out on the water under the stars, but not spend so much time out on the water that I’d permanently become an even darker shade of red than I’ve turned into already. The trip got off to an adventurous start, as we sailed through about 15 minutes of driving rain before we made it far enough offshore for the skies to open up to the shades of crystal blue so predominant in the region.

The two days consisted of exactly what a sailing excursion should entail. Island hopping, snorkeling stops, turtle, dolphin, eagle, and jellyfish spotting, and acoustic karaoke under the canopy of the Milky Way. The crown jewel of the Whitsundays is Whitehaven beach, a blinding white silicon beach with transparent shallow waters as far as the eye can see. I found my zone on a sandbank off shore, as turquoise tides from all directions crashed over me, spread-eagle in my stinger suit.

I haven’t decided what experience was more quintessential, lying down in one of the most beautiful places on earth shrouded in full body jellyfish armor, or singing Land Down Under beneath the nightlight of the Southern Cross. Either way, I’m now convinced I’m getting the full on Aussie experience.

Can’t cha hear, can’t cha hear that thundahh…

Rainforest Beaches

I’ve always seen photos of palm trees, ferns and other rainforest foliage draped out across pristine beaches, and wondered why, of all the beaches I’ve been to, I’d never actually been on a rainforest beach. Well, consider that accomplished. An hour or two north of Cairns lies the Daintree Rainforest, supposedly the oldest rainforest in the world. Hugging the coastline, the Daintree is filled with everything you’d expect in a rainforest: innumerable shades of green, funky trees, rivers, alien looking creatures, and, of course, giant spiders. Oh, and rain. Lots of rain. Thankfully, the rain came and went, and didn’t put too much of a damper on the day. After sampling some exotic ice cream flavors (Black Sapote, and Wattleseed, for those interested), my day of trekking, swimming, crocodile crossings, and spider spotting was complete.

The photo above is from the beach at Cape Tribulation, named by Captain James Cook after his crew’s troubles began in the area. Pristine beach, views, and rainforest, I’d finally found it. What I didn’t expect to find as well was a stern warning to not go near the water, as it was filled with poisonous jellyfish. Box jellyfish, among others.

Australia giveth, and Australia sting-eth away.

The Great Barrier Reef

After getting my fill of urban exploring in Sydney and Melbourne, it was time to experience a bit more of Australia’s natural wonders. First things first, a flight from southeast to northeast. On the final descent into Cairns, that’s Cans for my fellow “r”-pronouncing countrymen, I was reminded of two years prior, flying down into Rio de Janeiro. Rainforest covered mountains running right into a sparkling, jagged coastline. Only this time, instead of murky waters offshore, turquoise hues broken up by long sections of reef filled my view. It was beautiful, and made me all the more excited to not only experience a new environment, but also get up close and personal with something I’ve known about and wrote on bucket lists since I was a child.

I have to say, the Great Barrier Reef lived up to the hype. I’d snorkeled before in Hawaii and off the coast of Catalina Island, so I knew what to expect to some extent, and was cautiously optimistic I’d be blown away, but had not gotten my hopes up too awful much. Jumping off the boat an hour or so offshore from Cairns, the tepid water was filled with light, but there wasn’t much to see. I could tell the water was deep, and I started to regret not taking the Scuba lessons. A few flipper kicks later, I came upon a giant wall of bright colored coral, and as I skimmed over top, I was immersed in a frenzy. Fish of all shapes, sizes, colors, and mannerisms were darting left and right, munching away at the smorgasbord of coral like it was their last meal. In all my previous snorkeling experiences, I’d find a fish I thought was interesting and try to follow it around for a few minutes. None of this was necessary. With every turn of my head, I watched new, bigger, brighter, and goofier fish getting their brunch on. Sensory overload was in full effect. The only time things slowed down was when I found an open spot in the reef, where the sandy surface was somewhat barren 30 feet below. It was then that from the bottom, a majestic sea turtle made a beeline toward me. I watched him gracefully make his way up to the surface, an arm’s length from my face, just to grab a bit of air before returning down into the depths, continuing on his merry way. What a life.

While the fish and Mr. Turtle were the stars of the show, I was enthralled with the coral itself. The colors. The textures. The shapes. I was living a television show, my goggles the camera, my lungs the director. Scenes were cut off only when I was forced to come up for air after diving down into the chaos. There were giant psychedelic clams the size of a small fridge, contracting like a Venus flytrap when anything came in its vicinity. There was brain coral, branch coral, boulder coral, tabletop coral, and they all came in different shapes, sizes, and colors. Bright colors. Fluorescents I thought only existed under a black light.

As we continued out to the second reef of the day, for some reason I thought it’d be a good idea to look for sharks. Round 1 was unsuccessful. I’d more or less given up when I found myself in a similar environment to when I’d met Mr. Turtle. I turned my head in a new direction to catch a glimpse of an ominous, bigger than expected, shark. I can’t lie, I puckered. Why was I looking for this creature, again? After seeing 2 other, far smaller, reef sharks, I learned that I’d seen an aptly named Great Reef Shark. A rare sighting, and not something I ever need to see in that environment again. My stinger suit wasn’t going to do much to stop an oncoming Great Reefy (Australians and their abbreviations). Thankfully, it was gone as quickly as it appeared, off to startle some other snorkeler. While majestic, the Great Reefy was terrifying. For all the beauty contained within the reef, and Australia for that matter, there’s just as much that can poison, sting, or take a chunk out of you. Hopefully I can continue doing my best to avoid getting too up close and personal with the beastly side of Australian beauty.

I think I’ll stick with Mr. Turtle.

A Walk of Art

Walking the lanes and alleys in Melbourne is a sight to behold. Street art is encouraged within the city, so all variations of street art can be found in nearly every alley in most every neighborhood. If you think you’ve seen it all, just come back next week, as the alley will probably have a whole new look by then. The most famous alley in the city is Hosier Lane, where everything from dumpsters to staircases are colorfully annotated with an expression of self, a political message, or a challenge to societal norms.

The Great Ocean Road

Just 2 hours outside of Melbourne lies the aptly named Great Ocean Road, a coastal highway that stretches a couple hundred kilometers through both rugged and pristine coastline. Photo ops are littered throughout the drive, with the main draw being the 12 Apostles, a set of rock formations settled just off the shore. Coastal towns, hidden coves, rainforest, kangaroos, and koalas make the drive anything but mundane. I was in a constant state of anticipation of what was coming up around the next curve.

Adding to the adventure was the act of driving itself. Thankfully, I found a fellow traveler in my hostel that was planning to drive the road as well, so we were able to split costs for the 2-day adventure. Aside from company, I was also provided a navigator. It was good thing, too, as it required all my mental capability to not turn onto the wrong side of the road or go the wrong way through the roundabouts! Surprisingly, it didn’t take long to get used to being on the other side, though I still haven’t quite mastered the art of parking. Activating the turn signals was a challenge on its own, as more often than not I ended up turning on the windshield wipers, instead!

The drive went without a hitch. Two days of stunning coastline views, a little bit of camping, great company, and koala & kangaroo sightings made for a quintessential adventure on the Great Ocean Road.

Melbourne

After an ideal start to the trip in Sydney, the next stop on the adventure was Australia’s other major city, Melbourne. As far as geography goes, I liken Sydney and Melbourne to California’s competing cities, Los Angeles and San Francisco. Like San Francisco, Sydney sits in gorgeous topography, nestled into a harbour and littered with skyline views. Melbourne on the other hand, while near the coast, is relatively flat and dry, save some mountains on the horizon. Flying in, the landscape looked very similar to that of the greater Los Angeles area, albeit not nearly as sprawling. When it comes to the culture of the two cities, however, it’s quite the opposite. While I wouldn’t necessarily equate Sydney to LA, Melbourne screams San Francisco. And Austin. And maybe a little Portland, too. Coming from Sydney, where both the city and the people were always neatly buttoned-up, it was immediately clear that Melbourne was quite the opposite. Any and all styles go. Walking down Bourke street you’ll find performers, homeless, businessmen, exuberant youths, nomads, and hipsters, all hanging out in front of a high end fashion boutique. The mesh of lives, ideals, and styles is woven together seamlessly.

Turn down one of the main streets in the city center, and you’ll more than likely find yourself immersed in a world of street art, as spray paint cans and cigarette butts line the alleyways. Don’t turn around back to the main drag though, else you might miss out on the award-winning speakeasy cocktail bar located at the end of the lane. Endless nondescript cafes, bars, and restaurants are speckled throughout the city. I felt like I needed a treasure map to find all the hidden gems. Though I didn’t have a treasure map, I did have something just as valuable: Local Friends. I wouldn’t have made it to half of the tasty eateries and bars without the help of some former travel friends and coworkers. Thanks Alex and Lee!

About these bars. These aren’t your standard. There’s Berlin Bar, where east literally meets west, with half the bar covered in communist decor, while the other half looks a bit more...western. Or Bar Americano, which requires you walk down an alley within an alley to find a corner cocktail bar that holds all of 10 people at a time. You never know what the seemingly non-descript establishment you’re walking into may have on the other side. Perhaps you’ll get a rooftop view of the skyline, or maybe a DJ spinning records from the cockpit of a 1950’s war plane.

While Sydney was easy on all the senses, Melbourne focuses almost entirely on every aspect of one’s sense of taste.

Food, Drink, Style.

Melbourne.

Escaping the City

While Sydney really is a great city, I tend to relish in my time outside the concrete walls and happenings of city life. Thankfully, with a short 2-hour train ride from the city center, it’s possible to escape into some pretty pristine environments. The Blue Mountains get their namesake from the reaction of chemicals within the Eucalyptus leaves with the air. A blue haze results, which blankets the rolling hills of forests. From photos, I didn’t expect to be too impressed, but it really is striking when you first see it. Perhaps I arrived at the right time, as the late morning haze had yet to lift from the afternoon sun. There’s plenty to do in the relatively large National Park. I chose to escape the throngs of Selfie Sticks and walk a loop trail that brought me to the 3 Sisters, through Rainforest, under and above waterfalls, and apparently through some (very angry) bird habitats. Giant cockatoos and parrots were none too thrilled that I was trespassing along their trail. After a long day of hiking, I enjoyed a meat pie that I’d heard so much about (it did not disappoint) and headed back to Sydney, rejuvenated by my break from the city, and ready to do some urban exploration once more.

As I think about it, aside from the great food, views, and activities the city offers, it’s really the accessibility to nature that has me so keen on Sydney. The city is there for the taking, but a short ferry ride gets you to a serene coastline, or a secluded community, where the hustle and bustle is no more than a backdrop to your day’s activities, or lack thereof. 

Between the Flags

Beach life in Sydney isn’t all that much different from what I’ve been used to the last few years living in Hermosa Beach, California. Juice bars, cafes, and surfboards line the beaches, as the chiseled bodies soak up their tan from the sunshine (hole in the O-zone and all). Getting to and around the beaches, though, is a different story. The first beach I visited was Manly beach (apropos, I know). Rather than take the easy ferry, I instead ventured on the 10km coastal walk from Spit Bridge to Manly. Accompanied by my local guide, Natalie, the walk took us through the outlying communities that dot the hills in Sydney’s outer harbour. Small beaches provide great vantage points to watch the multitudes of sailboats making the most of the sun and wind. The walk passed through all sorts of different environments: beach, rainforest, bush, finally arriving at the community of Manly, a lively promenade leading to soft sand and surf. The 20-minute ferry back to Sydney was just as enjoyable, and a lot less strenuous than the journey out. Getting up close and personal with the Opera House and the Harbour bridge by sea was just the way to cap off a great day.

Bondi Beach, Sydney’s most famous, provided a similar vibe and another great coastal walk. From the edge of the beach, the Bondi to Coogee walk hugs the Cliffside, passing through a handful of beaches along the way. Around every corner were incredible views of the surf pounding against the cliffs, followed by pockets of serenity at the local beaches. After finishing the 2-hour walk, I caught the bus back to Bondi for some proper beach activity, namely laying my towel out and getting sunburned. Throngs of tourists and locals alike find their spot on the sand, taking the necessary swim breaks as the lifeguards direct the crowds to swim between the nomadic flags placed on the shore. I ended my day swimming a couple laps in the famous Icebergs, a seawater lap pool built into the cliff side.

Who says a little exercise shouldn’t come with a view?

Sydney

In all my previous travels, there’s been a language barrier that’s added a bit of mystery and adventure to the sights and scenery. Upon touching down in Sydney, though, it all felt…familiar. I could read every sign. Everyone had an answer for my questions. I could actually ask questions. In English. I didn’t even have to point and make up my own dialect of sign language. Sure, I’m still travelling, but the ease and familiarity of it all has at times caused me to forget that I am quite literally half a world away.

Sydney is, unequivocally, stunning. The views from the harbour, both from land and sea are mesmerizing. I found myself staring at the Opera House from every which angle, as I couldn’t help it capturing my gaze. Neighborhoods perched on the surrounding rolling hills provide innumerable glances at the skyline, best viewed from the rooftop bars and restaurants speckled throughout the city.

Sydney is clean. It’s bustling, yet surprisingly peaceful. While some locals may protest, it’s very easy to navigate by public transit. It’s connected. In less than 30 mins, you can take a ferry from the main harbour area to most every corner of the surrounding neighborhoods leading out to the Pacific. It’s global. Asian, European, even Mexican (!) cuisine can be found within walking distance from any place in the city…and it’s all delicious! Great food was not something I was expecting as I planned my trip to Sydney, but I was pleasantly surprised.

Taking in the city sights, exploring the character-filled neighborhoods, and relaxing on the soft-sand beaches, I’m ashamed to admit that I was looking to finish the sentence of, “Yeah, Sydney is great, but…” and I never could do it. I still can’t. Aside from a high cost of living, and perhaps some onerous liquor laws, the city is great in every way. It’s easy on all the senses:

Gorgeous. Quiet. Fresh. Warm. Delicious.

Well, there is one thing: The WiFi is trash. When your hostel charges $5 for a day’s worth of slow internet, there’s a problem.

Hey, there’s got to be something wrong with this place, right?

Retirement

About 4 years ago, I met with a financial adviser to start planning savings strategies for both near and long-term goals. We prioritized what my focus areas would be, and he posed the question, “Do you want to retire early?” Naturally, I confirmed this seemingly trivial question with an emphatic, “Yes!” and proceeded to watch him crunch some numbers that resulted in a strategy that showed, if I saved ‘x’ amount of money in accounts ‘x, y, and z’, I could retire at 55 years old, free to do whatever it is I wanted with myself after that. Clearly, we had different definitions of the word, “early.”

Isn’t it a bit strange that many of us spend our whole lives working and saving to one day do everything we want to do, even though that ‘one day’ is more often than not 30-40 years from today?

Why?

How can you be sure that everything you’d like to do right now will be the same when it comes time for your planned retirement? Wants and desires change over time. Priorities shift. A spouse changes your focus. The gift of children changes perspective. Life events throw curveballs in even the most airtight plans. With near certainty, I can venture a guess that my current wants and desires at age 28 are not going to be the same at 48. With that in mind, I’ve taken it upon myself to ensure that I continually pursue that which fulfills me at any given phase of my life.

And so…I’ve retired.

How long will this retirement last? I honestly don’t know, and I wouldn’t have it any other way. For at least the next 2 (possibly up to 6) months, I am going to do everything I can as a 28-year-old retiree that I might no longer want to do when it comes time for my next retirement. I’ll be spending a month in both Australia and New Zealand, chasing kangaroos and hobbits, before I head to Southeast Asia, where perhaps I’ll ride a motorbike through the jungle, the typical agenda of a retiree.

So, strap in and enjoy the ride, and see if you can keep up with an old retired guy… 

A Year in the Air

In the fall of 2014, about 6 months after I’d returned from my adventure through South America, I needed a change. Work was good, but not great. My travel itch had faded slightly, but had not disappeared. In my eyes, my career needed to progress, but up until this point my work and my travels were always mutually exclusive of each other. Work supported my ability to travel, but the two never played nice together.

By dumb luck or by some divine intervention, I stumbled across an enticing job posting while in the midst of applying for a different job that would have almost permanently reinforced the divide between work and travel. A month later I was on a plane, headed to Seattle, Washington for the week to provide consulting services I did not yet know I possessed. I went back to Seattle again the next week. And the week after that. And the week after that. A few months of Seattle weather in the winter can easily depress a Southern California beach resident, but I was invigorated by the newness of it all. Every week was a scavenger hunt to find new food, new people, new corners of the city, and new challenges at work. For the first time, I had figured out how to establish a symbiotic relationship between work and travel, and I dug it. The frequent flier miles and hotel points were just icing on the cake!

For the better part of the last year, my work (or travels, however you want to look at it) took me all over this country I’d somehow neglected during many of my previous travel jaunts. I spent the better part of the spring sampling Texas BBQ and touring Astronaut training facilities in Houston, as I got the chance to work on the next generation of American-made human space transport. The summer months brought me to sleepy Huntsville, Alabama, where a smile and hello was simply not enough to connect with some of the warmest people I’ve met. Conversations and relationships came first, and productivity was simply a byproduct. Throw in a couple trips to Kennedy Space Center in Cape Canaveral, Florida, a week in St. Louis, Missouri, and some weekend trips to New Orleans and Chicago, and you end up with quite a year of both fulfilling work and abundant travel.

After well over 100 flights, I’d touched nearly every corner of the United States, read at least a dozen books, listened to hours of podcasts, sampled all the local cuisines I could, and contributed to the development of some of the most advanced technology the world has seen to date. 

Now, what to do with all those frequent flier miles...